Brake pedal return and progress on 30 tudor

bnchief

bnchief

Senior Member
I did a search on the problem my new anti rattler springs do not put enough tension on the brake rods so i will fix that I will still add a helper spring just for a little added insurance.

Last weekend I got my headlights all hooked up properly all wiring done, I added a six pole toggle for my turn signals, halogen bulbs for the headlamps. I added the two gauge panel under the center dash, I installed the steering column brace and put a two gauge apco gauge holder on the original steering column mount and put in classic instrument gauges they have a tan face and a red needle pointer so they tend to look right for the period. I added the tachometer and voltmeter in the center and put the oil pressure and water temp on the column. I put a red indicator light in the steering brace that lets me know when the switch is turned to ignition(I am using a fsi electronic distributor that looks like the original. Tested all gauges to make sure they function. I put a battery cut-off switch under the driver seat which switches off the ground side of the battery as well as grounding the engine frame and body so the car has a good ground everywhere. I did convert the car to 12 volt and completely rewired the car with wiring from Tyree Harris. Spun the engine over to check for oiling pump works good also get about 10 psi cranking so I know this engine will get oil when I start it but it also has a oil filter on the valve cover. Clutch is adjusted for 1" travel and works fine feels good anyway. Hope to finish everything next weekend and fire the car up.
 
Sounds awesome. I'd love to see pictures of the interior setup. I've often thought about maybe adding gauges but what holds me back is the look of non authenticity. Maybe I will eventually.
 
The anti-rattlers on the brake rods do little or nothing to return the brake pedal. The primary force to return the brake pedal is from the springs on the brake shoes. But for this to work, you can't have any binding in the system and, you can't have gobs of slop either. The shoes must be able to move freely, and so too all the levers and linkages. If you have slop or play in the clevises or other parts, when the shoes spring back and push on wedges, all its going to do is take up the slack and the motion will never make it all the way back to the pedal.
 
Will N said:
The anti-rattlers on the brake rods do little or nothing to return the brake pedal. The primary force to return the brake pedal is from the springs on the brake shoes. But for this to work, you can't have any binding in the system and, you can't have gobs of slop either. The shoes must be able to move freely, and so too all the levers and linkages. If you have slop or play in the clevises or other parts, when the shoes spring back and push on wedges, all its going to do is take up the slack and the motion will never make it all the way back to the pedal.
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I AGREE about the rattlers and also feel they are more to prevent rattles then return the pedal... a correct brake rod adjustment and all good working parts will return the pedal to the full up position. The brake return spring is a band aide fix for other issues..
 
When the brake system is rebuilt properly the brake pedal will pop back with a resounding thump. The added brake spring is just a band aid trying to mask a problem. Rebuilding the system takes a lot of new parts: springs, tracks, rollers, adjusters, etc.. Even when properly working, the brake system will not stop as good as today's vehicles as you only have about 4 to 5 square inches of braking surface under each tire where it meets with the road.
 
The pedal does return ok it only misses full return by an eyelash all shoes drums rods and springs are new everything is new and snug I do need to lube the cross shaft, if you barely touch the pedal the brake light will go off it was late when i got to that point so a little more fine tuning will be needed in that area. I agree with you mitch i do not expect that spring to make up for other ills only make sure i do not have a brake light stay on i did put teds floaters in this setup and left the top spring off per the instructions. I do not give up so I will get it figured out . I have been taking lots of pictures so will post some here at a later date.
 
Will there is no slop in any of the systems i replace or repaired any worn part but you make an excellent point thanks. Jr ditto on the above that is exactly what i did.
 
jrelliott said:
When the brake system is rebuilt properly the brake pedal will pop back with a resounding thump.
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yea my AA's thats been gone thru with new springs and replaced anything worn and built up the roller plates and greased everything springs back with a great whump.
And yes the anti rattler springs do nothing - they just keep ever so slight tension on the rods so they dont rattle (great name for em isnt it :rolleyes:)
 
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