Brake lining replacement

shaefer

shaefer

Member
This is a task I've never tackled before, but since the shoes are in good condition, I don't see any reason to completely replace them.

What are some MUSTS when replacing woven brake linings?

My research has turned up the following: punch out the old rivets, remove the linings, replace with new linings, reinstall new rivets. Obvious, huh.

My current pads are worn so badly that the car barely stops and and I can't adjust the brakes properly with the adjustment tool/board. They're either "lightly grabbing" at full depression, or locked with no depression.

The drums are not messed up (amazingly) and show very very little wear on the front left where the rivet contacted the drum. Should these be okay to continue to use? Thanks.
 
Does this mean marry the pads to the shoes and then sand the pad to where it fits the drum perfectly? Does any kind of sand paper work for this, or am I looking for something more specialized? I'm completely new to this kind of project.
 
Light scoring from rivets is not a problem to worry over. Arcing the shoes just means to have the shoe fit the drum with no low or high spots over the face of the linings.
 
The drums are not messed up (amazingly) and show very very little wear on the front left where the rivet contacted the drum. Should these be okay to continue to use?

You need to measure the drums with a drum micrometer to see how worn they are.
I would follow the adjustment procedure in the Service Bulletins that way you know the brake cross shaft and all the brake rods are in the correct position.

Bob
 
Currently in the process. This is what spurred my other post about degreasing - it's a filthy mess down there.
 
The shoes must be the same diameter as the drum (well a bit smaller) and centered.

You must also be sure the wedges are all moving the drums the same amount. Used wedges are often filed some to take out wear so you really have no clue. The current repro stuff is great.

Brakes are about making a system work. All the parts have to be right.

I use a Barrett brake doctor to sand the shoes to size and center them on the car. It uses the axle to move a sanding disk around the shoes. I think you would be best buying backing plates set up from shops that can do them for you. You just need to accurately measure your drums. If you have steel drums you would smart to go to cast drums and just have the shop set them up for you.

There are other solutions like sticking sand paper to the drums and sanding the shoe to size. This might give you problems centering.

Remember, good brakes take time and money to make them. There is no such thing as cheap brakes that work right on the A.
 
Something as critical as brakes should be handled by an experienced person and not a newbee. You are obviously a newbee so I suggest you search out a professional so you don't kill or injure yourself or someone else. Wayne
 
Shaefer,
Before you even start relining shoes take the brake pins ( high quality new ones) and make sure they fit the shoes tightly. There are so many worn, butchered, and bad shoes out there it's a shame to reline shoes that have issues. As Kevin said there are many facets to doing a quality brake job. The new brake adjusting shafts, (A-2042) and adjusting wedges are excellent, and necessary for proper alignment and shoe distance to be even. Shoe arcing and fitting each shoe to the drum is imperative to a good job. I suggest finding someone in your area who is "A" brake schooled to help you arc the shoes or help you with the job if you desire.
Brakes are one of my specialties, you can't shortcut the job and get the best brakes.
Also, use quality brake springs. Personally I like the snyder springs over the other suppliers. Make sure the lower springs are the cad plated units. They have sufficient spring tension to hold the shoes tightly and ensure proper pedal return. I would also use the "wire type" anti rattle/return springs over the flat steel type. If you search my name under brakes I have suggestions from previous posts.

Larry Shepard
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Say Whaattt??:eek::eek: Must be early in the morning...
Click to expand...


Yes, you heard me correct.

Advice over time for the wedges was to file the wear spots to make them smooth. So you can imagine a wedge that has been filed a couple of times being no so good.
So now each wedge will have a different rate of expansion per rotation of the lever. The brakes will now always apply unevenly.

Let me go a step further. Imagine each wedge with several different ramps on them. So as you move them it might move at one rate, then change to a different rate. If each wedge is different, well they might work fine until the shoes wear a bit then you get on a different angle and they move the shoes different.

People do not think much about that, but when you compare NOS to used ones you see some weird stuff. It becomes clear you really really want to have new wedges if you want even braking.

I realize a lot of people will think me nuts for saying this, but then again there are a lot of people with brake problems.
 
Check your bushings. Many are worn out. The service brake lever shaft is heavily loaded every time you hit the brakes. Many people don't lube this bushing. Too hard to get to, or they don't know it's there. Grab the lever and pull left to right, toward the other side. If it wiggles, you have to put in new bushings. Do the emergency brake bushings while you are in there. Put the lining on, measure your drums, and find someone with a machine who can arc the lining. Then keep them all together, marked very well. There are still shops that have the arcing machine. Jack
 
shaefer said:
This is a task I've never tackled before, but since the shoes are in good condition, I don't see any reason to completely replace them.

What are some MUSTS when replacing woven brake linings?

My research has turned up the following: punch out the old rivets, remove the linings, replace with new linings, reinstall new rivets. Obvious, huh.

My current pads are worn so badly that the car barely stops and and I can't adjust the brakes properly with the adjustment tool/board. They're either "lightly grabbing" at full depression, or locked with no depression.

The drums are not messed up (amazingly) and show very very little wear on the front left where the rivet contacted the drum. Should these be okay to continue to use? Thanks.
Click to expand...

To answer the question you asked about re-lining brake shoes : When re-riviting the shoes, install the new lining starting at the center and work towards the ends. Be sure to clamp the lining tightly to the shoe and check that none of the rivets protrude above the lining.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
The shoes must be the same diameter as the drum (well a bit smaller) and centered.

You must also be sure the wedges are all moving the drums the same amount. Used wedges are often filed some to take out wear so you really have no clue. The current repro stuff is great.

Brakes are about making a system work. All the parts have to be right.

I use a Barrett brake doctor to sand the shoes to size and center them on the car. It uses the axle to move a sanding disk around the shoes. I think you would be best buying backing plates set up from shops that can do them for you. You just need to accurately measure your drums. If you have steel drums you would smart to go to cast drums and just have the shop set them up for you.

There are other solutions like sticking sand paper to the drums and sanding the shoe to size. This might give you problems centering.

Remember, good brakes take time and money to make them. There is no such thing as cheap brakes that work right on the A.
Click to expand...


Moving the drums? Don't think so. Wayne
 
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