brake lines

coolcoupe

coolcoupe

Well-known member
I can't get anywhere to flare my brake lines so I'm going to attempt it myself.
Anyone have any tips on flaring brake lines ?
 
Unless you're a stickler for originality, consider using Cunifer (copper alloy) for brake lines. It is superior in every way and much easier to work with than steel.
 
I assume you are planning to double flare the ends of the line, single flares will not do the job. I have an old Blue Point double flaring kit and it does a decent job of forming double flares. The tool’s inserts are also gages for how far the tube should protrude from the clamping fixture

The first important rule is to put the nut on the tube, pointing the right direction, before forming the flare. The next important step is cut the tube off square and put an even 45 degree chamfer on the outside of the tube, this will ensure an evenly formed flare. Practice making some flares on scrap pieces before attempting the flare on your project.

Or take it to a hydraulic shop and have them form the flares, they have much better tools that I have. I did that when I needed a bubble flare for a late model Bonneville.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you purchase a quality double-flaring tool. I've seen folks think they can make brake lines without the proper equipment. The proper tools are not cheap, but they are necessary to create the correct flare.

And as noted above, buy the NiCop type brake line - you can get it at places like Jeg's in 25' rolls.
 
Yes to the copper/nickel alloy. I had no luck at auto parts stores but found it at a Parker store that makes hydraulic hoses, fire hoses, etc. Its called Royal Brass here. And yes to a decent flaring tool. Mines not harbor freight but its not very good.
 
I made all my brake lines "concourse correct" for my 1940 chassis. Using steel brake line I got in bulk. I bought a good double flare tool. The flares and the lines turned out really nice. It's not difficult at all.
 
cas3 said:
Always put the nut on before you make the flare. Don't ask how I know that!
Click to expand...

Done that more than once at work. I've also bent the lines with the nut on the wrong side of the bend. Now I tape them to the ends before I make the bends.

The neighbor just had a '64 T-bird that somebody installed front disc brakes on it and they only made single flares and they were leaking. Always make double flares on automotive brakes.

There are several different brands of flaring tools. Some of them work better than others. I have an old Snap-On set that works pretty well. At the phone company we had a neat "Imperial" flaring tool, probably from the 1960s that was my favorite. I have never found another one like it. I should have taken it as a retirement gift.

Just practice on some tubing. It's not hard but it takes practice to make a factory looking flare. You need to leave the correct amount extended from the tool to get the correct diameter flare. The instructions will tell you how much for what diameter tubing. Make sure the end of the tubing is cut perfectly square. Make sure the inside does not have any metal burs hanging in there. Then just barely chamfer the outside sharp edge of the tubing with a file. That helps form the rounded edge. Put a little oil on the flaring tool where it contacts the tubing, so the tool does not grab the tubing but slides on it. Make sure to wash all the oil off when you are done. It's a two-step process. You have to practice at how much pressure to put on the tool to make the correct diameter flare. Not enough pressure and the flare will be too small. You can check your progress as you go. Make sure as the tool contacts the tubing its centered. The second step finishes the double flare. If you really crank down on the tool the flare will be too thin and it will crack, then you will have a leak. When your done inspect your flares closely for cracks and always test for leaks after the first road test. This is not difficult at all, you just need to do a few flares on some scrap tubing, and you will be making safe and nice-looking flares.
 
Bought the flaring tool that Eastwood sells. Not cheap, but it makes very nice double flares.
 
I've used the fancy hydraulic ones, they're nice but my plain ol' manual that i've had for decades works fine. As Flathead fever said above, slight chamfer on the outside edge helps start the flare to roll over. I keep the small file for it in the flare kit box.
 
Well I got all the lines bent and flaired today. I did practice on a few scrap pieces and they turn out not to bad, so did the 8 lines without trouble, so patted myself on the back and called a day !! Tomorrow I install.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top