Brake line routing question

Heard

Heard

Well-known member
I'm in the process of gathering up all of the stuff I need to convert my '35 pickup to hydraulic brakes. On my '36 coupe, which was converted by someone else, the rear brake lines are routed from a tee that sits on top of one of the radius rods as shown in the first pic.

The second pic shows the line going to the rear wheel cylinder. What is the purpose of the ribbed part of this line? It appears to me to be rigid and just a continuation of the rigid line running along the radius rod. Can I just run the rigid line right to the wheel cylinder? It seems to me the radius rod, axle housing, and backing plate are all rigidly mounted to each other and I would not need any sort of flexible line here, correct?

Thanks,
Heard
 

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That looks just like what's on my car. I believe that's a "spring" wrapped around the rigid brake line to provide some protection from damage. I guess it would also help prevent kinking when making those bends to get to the brake cylinder.

I'd be interested in seeing some pics on how you got your e-brake hooked up. Plan on getting mine hooked up this summer...been putting it off too long.
 
The spring covering is abrasion resistance, helping to protect the line. You are always better off running the line behind the axle, (especially with bare line), to minimize any damage impact with debris/stones etc.
 
I have been told that the coil winding is on the brake line to prevent it from kinking or getting squished when it is bent for installation at the factory. Also, considered a rock guard. Remember the old tubing benders that used a coil spring? https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Tub...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIK44tmp39gCFWPG4wcdZugIZg

Regarding your question: Can I just run the rigid line right to the wheel cylinder? It seems to me the radius rod, axle housing, and backing plate are all rigidly mounted to each other and I would not need any sort of flexible line here, correct?

I think you are correct as long as you install the flexible rubber brake line on the T-fitting on the top of the wishbone like in your 1st photo.
 
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Thanks guys. All good responses. Yes, I'm planning to use the Fedhill alloy stuff.

Capt - I can tell you that the e-brake arrangement is a first class PIA if you know what I mean. When I did it, I couldn't find (or didn't know) there were cables that were meant to be cut to size. I finally got something together that works pretty well. I'll see if I can take a few pics.
 
Regarding the spring winding on the rear lines.
Had a '73 Ranchero that had both sides of the axle mounted lines rust thru the tube and cause failure.
The winding on the tube provides a perfect place for unseen rust to form.
 
The spring protects the brake pipe. On my 41 pu I freed off the springs so the could move freely on the pipes. This allowed me to inspect the pipes for pitting and apply a light protective coating. I don't buy the helping to stop the pipe crushing when bending, factory benders would work better directly on the pipe. The spring can be slid into place on the pipe after the bends are made.

You can use solid pipe into the rear cylinders, there is no relative movement. The pipes on there now are solid, they just have a spring over them to protect them. Grabbing the spring and twisting it normally gets it moving. I applied atf/acetone mix to mine to free them up.

That rear axle is a 39 or 40. The pipes are factory 39/40 so (in my book at least) are routed correctly.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
That rear axle is a 39 or 40. The pipes are factory 39/40 so (in my book at least) are routed correctly.

Mart.
Click to expand...

The line (pipe) routing is factory correct, but can be improved on by moving them behind the axle, especially important with bare steel tubing, or an open wheel car. Brake lines should be always routed out of harms way as much as possible.
 
If you use the fedhill nicop and stainless steel rockgard line protectors you will not have any rust or corrosion problems. Be sure to put the rock gard on before you flare.

John
 
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