Brake Light Switch

L

LeRoiGross

Member
I keep having trouble with my repro brake light switch. It doesn't make good contact inside. Is there a better design out there?
 
Yes Snyder's and Brattons sell a correct copy of the original
STOP LIGHT SWITCH 30-31
A-13480-BOR 30-31 $49.95
 
At least take it apart and see what the problem is before you spend $50. So simple, you should be able to fix it.
 
I should have remembered that there at least 2 switches out there. I have a 29 and I may have fixed it by bending the contact inside. Still seems like a marginal design that will keep bugging me.
 
Years ago I had an issue with mine, and Tom Endy recommended I buy one from A&L, as it has a bronze bushing that will last and never bind. Have had mine now for almost 14 years....a great product!
 
Terry I think that is the one that Snyder's and Bratton's is sourcing, from A&L.

You know it will be right;)

And, 50 bucks for a good switch is cheaper than being rear ended.
 
Here's another thing the vendors don't have - any of them. The light switch you guys use on the '28 and 9 cars - the ones that attach to the side of the gearbox don't fit a RHD car. What was used originally on a RHD car and wil lthey ever do anything about it? I doubt it.
FWIW, I attach a plate in the corner formed by the cross member and the chassis rail and mount a LHD switch on that. I connect it to the brake pedal with a short piece of light chain. The connection has to be flexible so when the brakes are off, the chain can asg and not push itself off the switch.
 
Thanks PalAl; great article. We had problems with our first 29 switch. The Vintique one had a short plunger. We ordered a second one from another vendor and it had a longer plunger, now all good. I will say there is a very small clearance between the contacts and the mounting screws for electrical connections can sometimes move the internal contacts.
 
You can repair the switch by taking it apart and bending the contacts so they touch better. I also found some brass tubing about 1/4" long and soldered it at both ends of the switch housing where the plunger goes through the housing so the plunger could not slip out of the housing. Been working for 10 years now.
 
Hi folks,

I recently had to repair even the A&L US-made brake light switch with the brass bushings, even after only ~6 months of daily use. I was not very happy about that, for, given that one has to severely deform and re-deform the sheet metal tabs in order to open and re-close it, I have the feeling that only one or two repairs are going to be possible.


-A
 
apbright said:
Hi folks,

I recently had to repair even the A&L US-made brake light switch with the brass bushings, even after only ~6 months of daily use. I was not very happy about that, for, given that one has to severely deform and re-deform the sheet metal tabs in order to open and re-close it, I have the feeling that only one or two repairs are going to be possible.


-A
Click to expand...

I wonder what symptoms you had with your switch? Mine works on first braking but as plunger moves to furthest out no brak lights. I jumped contacts so I know it must be the switch.It is the $49.95 one from Bratton's and has yet to get me out of the garage.Thinking about one of those Ampco NORS ones on Ebay now and then next if Bratton's won't help.Trouble is I have had the switch for year now and just hooked it up.
 
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