Brake light switch

F

Ford guy 2

Member
Can someone tell me how to adjust the break light switch,mine if you just put your foot on the pedal the brake light comes on with no pressure what do I do.Thanks
 
1. What kind of brake switch do you have?

A. The 1928-29 switch, attached to the transmission, where the brake pedal pulls the brake switch rod forward; or,

B. The 1930-31 switch, attached to the chassis cross rail, where a rod pushes the brake switch rod rearward.

2. In either case, the brake switch is open with no electrical contact when the brake pedal is not depressed; however, when the brake pedal is depressed, the switch makes electrical contact to provide electricity to the brake lamps.

3. My WAG or guess is that you may have the 30-31 switch; & if so, remove attaching brake switch bolts & add washers as required to move the brake switch slightly rearward.

Hope this helps.
 
Henry, moving the switch REARWARD will make it come on even sooner.

I'm wondering if the brake pedal is coming all the way back?
 
My guess is the rod coming from your brake petal to the brake cross shaft is not adjusted right, now it is to short. when setting up all of your brake rods, that one should adjusted first. if you look up inside the center cross member the button on the end of the rod should almost up against the cross member. if you move the switch back any further your brake light will stay on all the time. and like Tom said make sure your petal is returning all the way back.
 
Hi ford guy 2,

Tom, JW, & Patrick are correct -- thinking backwards at 02:29 a.m. after finishing repairing my lawn mower.

Because of a 3:27 speedometer gear adapter in the way of the cross-shaft, had similar problem with 30-31 switch & recently posted this on 04/29/13 under title of:

"3:37, speedometer gear, 1930 Brake Light Switch

7. After brakes & everything else adjusted, installed a new 1930/31 brake light switch with all new wiring. (Car came with a 1929 top of transmission brake light switch).

8. After installing the 1930/31 brake light switch, the front tip of the switch rod did not move far enough to the rear to turn the brake light switch "OFF" when it touched the rear tip of the pedal to cross shaft rod. (Needed a minimum of "approximately" 5/16" movement to the rear to turn it "OFF").

9. Solution: Either add on to the rear of the pedal to cross shaft rod or add on to the front of the brake light switch rod -- chose adding to the front of the brake switch rod.

10. Placed the rear flat end of the brake switch rod in a vise, & threaded the front part of the brake light switch rod with a 10-24 die.

11. Screwed on a 10-24 nut first, followed by a 10-24 coupling nut, followed by a 10-24 round head screw with lock washer, screwed into the coupling nut.

12. Adjusted front length of brake light switch by cutting length of coupling nut & cutting length of the 10-24 round head screw to bottom out on switch rod.

13. Drilled a 1/2" hole through new corner brace "stop" (this added because of 3:27 speedometer adapter), & the chassis cross frame to allow coupling nut on switch to move back & forth.

14. Everything finally worked -- ordered a new A & L brake light switch today & will modify same with die & coupling nut.

(The Chinese made Home Depot 10-24 "Bolt-Pro" coupling nut threads are too large - bought U. S. made coupling nuts at local hardware store).

Hope this helps.
 
The service bullitens says there should be 1/16 of an inch between the plunger on the brake pedal rod and the center crossmember, where it contacts the brake light switch. This measure was said to avoid squeeks. I never noticed any squeeks so I set mine with the pedal rod plunger contacting the center crossmember with the brake pedal adjusted at the TOP of its travel. This works good for me, the brake light switch works good and this also helps avoid running out of threads where the clevis connects to the front brake rods. I would check the position of the pedal rod in relation to the center cross member, This should also improve your brakes..
 
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