Brake light switch for 55 ford

zoegrant

zoegrant

Well-known member
my brake light switch on my 55 sedan is not sensitive enough to go on when gently applying the brakes. The brake lights come on if I come to a hard stop.

Can they be adjusted in any way ?
Also, is the switch under the dash ?
 
It’s on the brake lines and hydraulic from line pressure. I know some use the switch off a Harley as it activates at low pressure. I can’t tell you which one. I put a mechanical under the dash, made a bracket to work off the brake arm.
 
Same problem with the one in my '39 pick up. Switch is hydraulic, mine is behind the m/c. I've heard a switch from a Harley m/c solves the problem. Simple bolt in replacement. Or you can adapt a mechanical switch. I believe mid 50's p/u's used them. Other threads on the HAMB and I think the flathead section here on the barn.
 
This little switch is the answer to any vehicle that has an old out of date low pressure brake light switch. This new switch made by CPP activates your brake lights on at 45psi, not 95psi like the originals, allowing for a faster signal to your taillights and allowing a lot more time for the car behind you to react. While the original switch was rated for drum brakes, the new switch was made with disc brakes in mind! Everyone who looks at this auction needs to hit the buy it now as this is a must have item! Remember, everything wears out eventually, so update that old crusty outdated switch to a new upgraded unit. You won't believe the difference.
Click to expand...


SOURCE - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-FORD-LOW-PRESSURE-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-/280876618864
 
I am going to change my brake light switch on my 55 sedan with a low pressure one I bought on Ebay.
When I remove the old switch which is screwed into a brass junction block on the back of the master cylinder will the old switch removal require I bleed the brakes after replacement with a new switch ?
 
No - you don't have to bleed the brakes. Done this a number of times w/o bleeding and never had a problem. Have the new switch in your hand near the old switch as you remove it.
I made up a bracket attached to the pedal support and installed a mechanical switch. Instant brake lights just touching the pedal. I have sort of a how to if your interested. Similar to the one sold by the TBird suppliers.



zoegrant said:
I am going to change my brake light switch on my 55 sedan with a low pressure one I bought on Ebay.
When I remove the old switch which is screwed into a brass junction block on the back of the master cylinder will the old switch removal require I bleed the brakes after replacement with a new switch ?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info on whether I need to bleed the brakes. If the new switch I have on order is not sensitive enough I would appreciate a how to on the pedal actuated switch.....I had one from a T-bird vendor on my 56 bird and loved it...thanks
 
The OEM replacement switches are not DOT 5 silicone brake fluid compatible. But the repro parts suppliers sell a "low-pressure" brake light switch that is silicone brake fluid compatible. I put one of those on my '55 Sedan many years ago. My '55 Courier has a Harley brake light switch. Either one is proper pipe thread for factory brake fitting at the nose of your master cylinder.
Either way you go, you will need to snip off the factory bullet connectors at the end of your wires and use the pigtail set that comes with the new switch.
 
zoegrant said:
Hi Bob...that looks like the one I just ordered on Ebay….Thanks for the picture.
Click to expand...


Glad to help. It trips at 45 PSI. I got one with a CPPP proportioning valve that leaked immediately. Grabbed one at NAPA that took high pressure to trip. I'm happy with the one I got, should pick up another one just in case.
 
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