Brake Light Switch Backwards

[rotorwrench]

Brake light switches of the pressure activated type are becoming less common for design in the modern era. A lot of them are Hecho in Mexico now days. I've had several new ones go bad and even start leaking. The old ones lasted a life time but they guy that owned the car before died so the life time is up.

 

[Chris Haynes]

Is this how your switch is mounted??

I have never seen a switch mounted there. All I have seen were on the X member.

 

[Jeff M]

Re "most hydraulic switches fail quite often" Maybe you would like to explain that one a bit more or were is that information coming from?
Up at the start of this you said you took it apart, was not sure why you would take a new switch apart, but maybe that has something to do with it.

I took it apart because the aftermarket '28-'29 switches are known for not working out of the package. When I took it apart the contacts didn't touch with the plunger pulled back, so I fixed that issue before installing it.

With hydraulic brakes I too would have probably used the master cylinder switch. They were used reliably for decades. But, he decided to use a mechanical switch.

I'm using a later dual circuit master cylinder, not a factory style early Ford with the rear mounted switch.

Brake light switches of the pressure activated type are becoming less common for design in the modern era. A lot of them are Hecho in Mexico now days. I've had several new ones go bad and even start leaking. The old ones lasted a life time but they guy that owned the car before died so the life time is up.

Exactly!

I have never seen a switch mounted there. All I have seen were on the X member.

That is where the '28-'29 switches are mounted, I'm using the earlier switch on my '30.

I've been ******* all week but I plan to get some shop time in tomorrow and figure what's going on.

 

[Patrick L.]

Well, if you're using hydraulic brakes then the dual cylinder is a good idea. And I do agree with the opinion of a lot of new parts nowadays.

 

[ryanheacox]

I took it apart because the aftermarket '28-'29 switches are known for not working out of the package. When I took it apart the contacts didn't touch with the plunger pulled back, so I fixed that issue before installing it.

I can't help but think the problem has to be in the switch still. If you're sure that there is no grounding issue I don't know what else the problem can be. A quick check would be to put an ohmeter across the switch with the battery disconnected and check the continuity.