Brake floaters?
- Thread starter Mike the Grump
- Start date
My experience with these goes back a number of years. They worked OK UNTIL the drums get worn and/or turned larger than standard ...
If drum is too large they make a loud noise and go "over center" and lock up the front brake drum.
Some times they return to the correct position but if not you have to remove drum and release them manually.
If drum is too large they make a loud noise and go "over center" and lock up the front brake drum.
Some times they return to the correct position but if not you have to remove drum and release them manually.
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Mike the Grump
Member
Thank you for the replies. I feel better that it's not home made. The drums are new and the car is not on the road at this time. Certainly something to keep in mind though.
Vic in E-TN
Well-known member
Mike:
Check the archives. There are a few posts on this including one that I posted about 2 years ago. This floater was available generally 15 or 20 years ago and has performed well for me on one car. I wanted another one but they are not available from the vendors now.
Vic
Check the archives. There are a few posts on this including one that I posted about 2 years ago. This floater was available generally 15 or 20 years ago and has performed well for me on one car. I wanted another one but they are not available from the vendors now.
Vic
Mike the Grump
Member
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Those are SURE-STOP-EQUALIZERS! Sacramento Vintage may still sell them??
Minerva had them & they worked VERY WELL!----I "think" they help apply MORE pressure than stock!--YES, you gotta' keep your brakes adjusted, so they don't "possibly" pop over center, BUT you're supposed to that REGULARLY anyhow!
IF you use them, be SURE to shorten the operating pins, per instructions. "Someone" DIDN'T do that on Minerva & had the front rods adjusted to where they were on by only "about" 2 or 3 threads (EEEEK!)
Bill Screech
Minerva had them & they worked VERY WELL!----I "think" they help apply MORE pressure than stock!--YES, you gotta' keep your brakes adjusted, so they don't "possibly" pop over center, BUT you're supposed to that REGULARLY anyhow!
IF you use them, be SURE to shorten the operating pins, per instructions. "Someone" DIDN'T do that on Minerva & had the front rods adjusted to where they were on by only "about" 2 or 3 threads (EEEEK!)
Bill Screech
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30 Tudor
Member
Have you had these off and taken any pics or made any measurements,,
it would be interesting to see exactly what they are about.
Some of us might like to make a set,, no need to reinvent the reinvented
brake apply lever. It looks like a good idea to me.
It could be designed so that it would be impossible to go past center and lock up. with the kind of leverage available there it looks like power brakes to me.
I like it.
Mike the Grump
Member
Thank you for all the replies. I've learned a lot.
I'm still getting orientated on this project. Haven't had much time to mess with it yet. I do need to move this almost rolling chassis to another garage this weekend. It's not a long trip, about 50 yards.
Hubs had been swedged to the new front drums.
New shoes were installed but appear not to have been arched.
The drums don't fit over the shoes.
This is when I started looking at the equalizers and sorting out (in my pea brain) how the drum brakes and rod adjustments worked to determine if I could get a little more clearance. I've backed out the adjuster and disconnected the rod. The drum still won't fit.
Normally, I don't like cutting corners but I'm not going to have time to find someone to arch shoes for me or source the correct springs. I don't see any reason I can't pull the shoes out, put the drums on and push the chassis around the property. Anyone see how that would cause a problem?
The car is 400 miles from where I live. This will all be much easier when it's in my garage early next year.
Thanks again.
I'm still getting orientated on this project. Haven't had much time to mess with it yet. I do need to move this almost rolling chassis to another garage this weekend. It's not a long trip, about 50 yards.
Hubs had been swedged to the new front drums.
New shoes were installed but appear not to have been arched.
The drums don't fit over the shoes.
This is when I started looking at the equalizers and sorting out (in my pea brain) how the drum brakes and rod adjustments worked to determine if I could get a little more clearance. I've backed out the adjuster and disconnected the rod. The drum still won't fit.
Normally, I don't like cutting corners but I'm not going to have time to find someone to arch shoes for me or source the correct springs. I don't see any reason I can't pull the shoes out, put the drums on and push the chassis around the property. Anyone see how that would cause a problem?
The car is 400 miles from where I live. This will all be much easier when it's in my garage early next year.
Thanks again.
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Grumpy,
You complained about moving your chassis.
Heard of a Guy that got tired of moving his Fordor & mounted a Briggs & Stratton with a centrifugal clutch, on a flat bar that clamped on the frame rails. He welded a splined clutch center to the end of the clutch & plugged it onto the pilot shaft. With NO floorboards, he could reach the controls & "DROVE" it back & forth!!!
Bill Whydidn'tIthinkofthat?
You complained about moving your chassis.
Heard of a Guy that got tired of moving his Fordor & mounted a Briggs & Stratton with a centrifugal clutch, on a flat bar that clamped on the frame rails. He welded a splined clutch center to the end of the clutch & plugged it onto the pilot shaft. With NO floorboards, he could reach the controls & "DROVE" it back & forth!!!
Bill Whydidn'tIthinkofthat?
