Brake Floaters

stewwolfe

stewwolfe

Senior Member
I'm replacing the brakes in my 68C and have installed the brake floaters in the the operating wedge. I notice that the rollers are contacting the stud washer which causes the brake shoes to ride up 1/4 inch at the center. I can't see any way to keep the shoes in proper position without removing the washer, but don't think this is a viable option. Has anybody else had a problem like this? If so, how did you solve it? I've attached a picture of the rollers hitting the stud washer.
 

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You've got another problem that you'd better fix, too. The edge of the backing plate is bent inwards in at least one place (near the left brake shoe in your photo), which will rub against the brake drum when it's installed. This will cause a chirping sound or a continuous scraping noise as the wheel turns. Use a vise-grips and gently pull the bend in the backing plate outwards in a couple places.
'Can't comment much on your binding issue, based on the photo. Everything should fit. Take it all apart again and carefully examine the parts, including the ones you're replacing. That will narrow down which one is causing the misalignment/binding problem.
Marshall
 
Thanks, and good catch Marshall. I didn't even notice that. I guess I was too involved in the shoes riding up. I've straightened the backing plate. Still questioning why the rollers ride on the washer though.
 
I installed the original operating wedge stud on the other front backing plate and notice that, with new rollers and roller pins, the rollers ride on the top outer edge of the operating wedge stud and the stud washer. They ride in the stud washer of the new (floating) wedge stud, but not the top (it sits higher than the old one, but is bolted down firmly). I can't tell by the photos I took while disassembling the brakes if this is correct. Does anybody know if the roller should ride on the top outer edge of the operating wedge stud?
 
Loosen the 3/4" wedge stud castle nut on the other side of the backing plate. It may be too tight and is binding the wedge from making its full travel. I've had that happen before with repo parts. It looks to me as though your wedge should go up higher. It may be stuck because the nut on the wedge stud is too tight. Back it way off and push up on the wedge. Let us know if that pops things loose.
Marshall
 
I just finished installing floaters on my A and everything fit fine. The rollers fit between the washers and up against the wedge as they should. I notice that there is a raised area in the center of the outside washer in your picture. The stud on mne was welded to the washer but had a flatter profile. The only problem I had was getting the roller pins up onto the roller track. I wonders if your set is a manufacturing defect.

Marshall beat me as I'm a slow typist. I was thinking it might be too tight also. Seems I read that it shouldn't be too tight.
 
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you might have to grind down the washers some. The bottom most portion of the wedge doesn't do anything anyway, when fully assembled the rollers will only come down about 2/3 of the way.

The other issue to address now is to chamfer the ends of the linings to about 45* so you don't have an edge trying to dig into your drum
 
Here is the way that the lining needs to look after grinding on both the leading and trailing ends of the lining. Without this angle on the ends of the lining it will be very difficult to get the drums over the shoes. I do this on all of mine, front and back

4440989-T400300.jpg
 
Somethings wrong with the product if you have to grind it to make it fit. Mine fit fine with the original wedge and rollers. I'd call the vendor you purchased the product from before grinding anything. If you find the product is defective I doubt you can return it.

I wonder if the rollers are thicker than originals. That would seem like the problem if as you say they are new. Do you have some original rollers? If so, check the thickness and see if they are the same.
 
It's been a while, but a couple of years ago when I relined my front shoes I used new hardware and I remember that I needed to ream out the roller center holes. Make sure the rollers turn freely, since they were a bit tight on the pin. Plus, make sure the cotter pins do not inhibit the roller movement. Add a bit of lube(grease) on the wedge.
 
The new rollers for the same thickness as the old rollers. I did have to ream them out slightly to get free movement. I finally got the shoes to seat properly after replacing the thicker bottom washer with the original washer. Everything looks like it will work properly now. I'll let you know as soon as I get it put together. As soon as the new drums arrive the whole mess goes out for arching, then we'll see how well it stops.
 
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