Brake Floaters For 1936

billybronco1

Well-known member
Seems from what I can see flathead Ted does not have a brake floater kit for 1935 & 1936. Macs has one but it looks like it only floats the top half of the brake shoe. I have not opened mine up yet but trying to study up to see how to plan my brake update adventure.
 
Ted has floaters for 36. They are the best. Pm him on here. He’s a great guy. With everything adjusted correctly I can lock all 4 wheels at 60 mph.
 
Ford even made floaters for 36 it's in the service bulletins
 

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Installing brake floaters on my 35 fordor sedan made a huge improvement to its otherwise stock mechanical braking system. I hear Ted's are very good, and I plan to use his on another '35 I'm working on.
 
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The floaters will work great BUT the brakes have to be in good shape to start. JMO
Paul in CT They are not a bolt on miracal cure.
 
36 four door with Ted's floaters will lock up all four tires whenever you want. I have installed them on over 10 cars so far from Model A's to 38 with great results. I like them better than hydraulic conversions, the only trouble I had in the beginning was not properly adjusting the brake rods/cables
 
I've always had a hard time understanding why locking up the brakes is good?!? Doesn't that happen right before you hit something?

I try to keep mine stopping without locking up.

Regardless the SB's are out there in multiple of formats. Here's one I'm keeping nearby that I bought at a swap meet in Dearborn in 2018... Anyone know who owned it before me? Seems to have been bought at Greenfield Village thirty years before I scored it!

Kurt's pic is from the August 1936 edition.

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Where do you buy your Ted's floaters for the 36? Is there any documentation on how to get the brake rods adjusted correctly before installing the floaters?
 
Is there any documentation on how to get the brake rods adjusted correctly before installing the floaters?

The process for 1935 cars is in the December 1934 Bulletin. That'll get you pretty darn close with your '36.

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I think the term "locking the brakes up" means the brakes are in perfect operating order.

As long as all 4 are able to lock up at the same time in a uniform order then you have good brakes.

Many cars, by hitting the pedal as hard as you want don't have the ability to maximise the braking system, or lock them up.
 
I think the term "locking the brakes up" means the brakes are in perfect operating order.

As long as all 4 are able to lock up at the same time in a uniform order then you have good brakes.

Many cars, by hitting the pedal as hard as you want don't have the ability to maximise the braking system, or lock them up.


I agree, and would emphasize "uniform order". Brakes that are correctly adjusted will not lock any wheel until all four are ready to lock up. A skidding tire provides very little stopping power.
 
The floaters will work great BUT the brakes have to be in good shape to start. JMO
Paul in CT They are not a bolt on miracal cure.

Yes, very true. Installing floaters alone will NOT automatically give you great brakes. You MUST first go through the complete mechanical system and replace/repair ALL worn pieces and parts, and fine tune ALL adjustments. This is definitely a MUST!!! Then and only then will the floaters work properly!
 
Just fitted a set to this 1935 ,Current batch heading to Eckler with the following changes to the instructions add weld to one front link 2042 up to one 1/8 ,this sets the wedge at the rear of the hole ,also king pin rod actuator 2075 add weld up to 1/4 ,this sets the clevas about 30% forward or 2" from the axle ,you would need to let out the thread on the Rod clevis, A choice of two holes for the clevas on the foot brake rod can be viewed through the battery box,top hole for more leverage ,Ted
 

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Thanks for the endorsement to ,I agree with the locking up ,I spent about five hours playing around with adjustments on this 35 i use a scissor jack and a block against the seat , The weld makes up for ware if you have thick linings say 1/4 maybe new drums it may not be necessary.Rear rods to tight can cancel the fronts were you want the action .I back of the rears and get the fronts working, sliding .with the pedal 1/4 down with a jack and just barely able to turn the fronts I bring on the rears (adjuster ) until you can feel them starting to rub this way the fronts come on first ,this 35 adjustment resulted on the front laying black marks on the cement ,Ted
 

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To those who do not know, floaters basically keep the brake shoes centered with the drum at all times. The rest of the system must be in good condition as any slop gives you excessive pedal travel.

As far as wheels locking up, it may not be desirable but it tells you that the tires are now the weak link in your system. All the hydraulics in the world will not stop you faster. Adjustment and modulation will ensure optimum control while braking.
 
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