Brake Drum removal & install

dfish2931nc

dfish2931nc

Member
This maybe a dumb question, but here goes. I need to remove a good brake drum from a bad hub. I bought a tool made to drill the old stud so the drum will come off. I noticed that after using that tool, that the hole in the drum looks larger than a drum not mounted. When I have the drum swedged to a new hub, will the stud squeeze down far enough to hold the drum to the new hub? Has anyone tried this?
 
The stud cutting tool is only supposed to cut the swagges part of the stud. You do not want to cut deep enough to cut into the drum. If the drum is cut the new studs will not fit correctly and the new swag will not tighten like it is supposed to. Ken
 
Both Brent and Ken are correct. The size of the hole is critical to proper installation. It should be the same diameter as the shoulder on the stud. Be sure that if you are repairing a steel drum, rather than a new cast iron one, that the studs are checked for length. Most of the studs are longer now, to fit the thicker cast, and will need machining to fit properly. I have run out of the old studs quite a while ago, and have been unable to obtain any. The new ones can be machined to fit. Also, the holes in the drum,for the stud, should be chamfered to allow for the swedging to be level with the face of the drum. You may not of ruined the old drums unless you forced the tool all the way through the hole! Worth a check......
 
The tool you need for this job I believe has a 5\8" inside diameter and looks like a deep socket. It has little cutting blades on the end. It is called a swage cutter. The idea is to cut the old swage on the lug, not the drum itself. Once the swage has been cut you still need to press the lugs out of the holes in the hub and the drum. You should always support the bottom of the drum with a "C" shaped section of pipe so that you do not deform the hub flange and the drum if you plan to use it again.

The new lugs have to fit somewhat tight in the holes in the flange and the drum. A swaging tool with at least a 20 ton press has to be used to form a new swage on the lip of the new lug, and the lug has to be the proper length for whatever thickness of drum you are using. The reproduction cast iron drums are thicker in the lug area. This has to be done with care so as not to put any pressure on the drum itself as you will crack it if it is cast iron.

This type of work is best left to a Model A person who has the know how, experience, and tools to do the job properly. A word of caution do not take the job to a commercial auto machine shop. They will cause you a lot of grief. The folks who did this type of work in commercial shops have long retired or died off.

Tom Endy
 
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I'm pretty sure it was Don Turley that built a nice jig to use when removing and installing the wheel studs. Might have a look at Don's website to see the tool.
 
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I bought the tool from a place that sells machining tools. Can't remember name, but it is for cutting swedge. I know what I did wrong now. I cut too far. I went all the way down to the hub. I should hae only cut to thin the swedge and then press out the stud when the swedge is thin or gone. But not all the way through the drum. Thanks so much to all who answered. I wish I could remember the common sense I once had.
 
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