brake board adjustments

A

allenmichael

Member
This on a 1936 model 68.
Aside from all the pro's cons of the brake board approach, I did use one adusted all as described, however when i removed the board after the "third" step adjustment, the rears were still locked.
I am assuming the problem is the rod length and I should "shorten" the rears as the first two steps in the board were not activating the brakes on the first two steps.
I'm going to just back off the rears on the adjustment screws until I get rotation and use that as my first adjustment to the rod length.
thoughts?
 
I don’t know what the “brake board” is but I disconnect rods adjust each wheel so they barely drag. Then be sure the rods are straight and the anti rattle brackets are not pushing on rods at all now adjust rods where you can connect them without changing wheel drag. Now find a gravel road or driveway and test brakes. Now adjust rods where all wheels lock up on gravel at the same time. Flathead Teds floaters are also a tremendous upgrade.
 
I can’t comment on the gravel road method as I never tried that, but in my experience with my ‘38 having cable brakes, a paved road works well to discover brake pull left/right, as well as forward/rear. Remember, the front end dives under heavy breaking, relieving the rear of tire to road friction, meaning that the rears need to be adjusted looser than the fronts in order to lock all wheels simultaneously.
 
cas3 said:
Also, cables can be sticky sometimes. Are yours all traveling freely?
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Not with proper lubrication in the sheaths they aren't sticky. Ordinary grease goes dry and some also freezes during winter. My '38 got NOS cables with fresh lube, and never had issues again.
 
Seth, if I recall correctly, I think I used fifth wheel lube, but yes, white lithium is an excellent choice. Remove the cable, clean both the cable and internal sheath, pump it in, followed by the cable. It’ll not rust, freeze, or get sticky.
 
ford38v8 said:
Seth, if I recall correctly, I think I used fifth wheel lube, but yes, white lithium is an excellent choice. Remove the cable, clean both the cable and internal sheath, pump it in, followed by the cable. It’ll not rust, freeze, or get sticky.
Click to expand...


I use the lithium grease on brake components and to lube speedometer cables.
 
I loved using the "brake board", notched stick brake adjustment method. Just because it was a cool old school method. Always worked just fine for me. Chap
 
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