Brake adjustment

spinelll

spinelll

Senior Member
I had to replace my rear service brake rods this winter and decided to adjust all four brakes using that homemade wooden tool described in Andrews’ book and detailed here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMizfaKHXVQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMizfaKHXVQhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMizfaKHXVQ

After following those procedures I had virtually zero braking power. It took me about 50 feet to stop at 10 mph. So now I’m down to turning the brake adjusting wedge one click for all wheels then testing. The one click more and testing etc.

There is one thing that’s bugging me. When I had the car up on jacks and was using the wooden block method, I encountered this for example:
1. Wheel has no drag
2. One click clockwise, wheel has very slight drag.
3. One click clockwise, wheel is locked.
4. One click counter clockwise, wheel has slight drag.
5. One click clockwise, wheel is locked.
6. One more click clockwise, wheel has more drag than step2 but is not locked.

What explains step 6 where I was locked, went clockwise and was then not locked?

Thanks
Leo
 
Sounds like you've got some worn parts in the adjusting ***'y. The adjusting wedge is hanging up between clicks and shoe pins not seating between the ridges on the wedge. Another possibility is the brake shoes themselves, if they were relined, not arched to drum, new linings not chamfered on ends... I would start from ground zero with your brakes, making sure all parts function as they should.
 
Forget that wooden block gizmo!! You gotta' have ALL 4 wheel brake action synchronized!!!
1-Disconnect all brake rods at operating levers.
2-Adjust each brake just to a lock up while holding sides of tread with thumb & forefinger. Back off 3 or 4 knotches.
3-Push back gently on L/F operating lever to take up slack while pulling forward on rod to take up slack, adjust clevis so pin just slides in the hole. Leave rod disconnected!
4- Do the R/F the same way.
5- Do each rear the same, except you will be pushing the operating lever forward and pulling the rod to the rear.
6-Hook up and cotter key the pins & you're done!
7-If you encounter any slight pull to the right or left, just back off a notch or two on the side it's pulling to. Bill W.
( This way will also result in a higher brake pedal )
 
Bill

I'm eager to try your method but I'm not understanding step 2. What do you mean by, "while holding sides of tread with thumb & forefinger."

Thanks
Leo
 
spinelll said:
Bill

I'm eager to try your method but I'm not understanding step 2. What do you mean by, "while holding sides of tread with thumb & forefinger."

Thanks
Leo
Click to expand...
Leo,
Just tighten 'til you can't turn the wheel with two fingers, so you can have a uniform "LOCK UP" point for all 4 wheels. Like, don't use your Gorilla Buddy to tell you when it's "LOCKED" bILL w.
Oh! forgot, after lock up, bang on backing plate with rubber hammer to centralize shoes and sometimes you can get a few more notches of adjustment before it locks up.
 
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Hey Leo. One other thing i sometimes notice is when adjusting the square adjusting stud, you can rock your wrench back and forth ever so slightly to center that stud. Sometimes it just takes a little bit to much either way and it will drag or get tight. When you tighten it, just try to center it with the wrench while rotating the tire. Are you using a good fitting wrench? I have used that wooden tool and never had a problem. But you really need to start by disconnecting all your brake rods and start from scratch, like Les Andrews describes in his book.
Like Brent, i am not sure about Bills method but if it works, go for it. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with it.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
When you say they locked up dod you try to move it one rotation? I'm thinking the drum is out of round.
Click to expand...
Nothing to do with out of round. Just my way of a uniform "lock up" position before you back it off 3 or 4 notches. If you could see my hands moving, I could probably explain it better! Man! if we had cameras & sound, what a PARTY THIS WOULD BE!!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Nothing to do with out of round. Just my way of a uniform "lock up" position before you back it off 3 or 4 notches. If you could see my hands moving, I could probably explain it better! Man! if we had cameras & sound, what a PARTY THIS WOULD BE!!
Bill W.
Click to expand...

Not you Bill you're not out of round.:cool:

I was making mention of the adjustment. If the drum is out of round there will be a spot where the same adjustment is tight and if the wheel is turned is can be real loose.

I've used the wood method with no problems.
This is not to say that any other method is better or worse.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Not you Bill you're not out of round.:cool:

I was making mention of the adjustment. If the drum is out of round there will be a spot where the same adjustment is tight and if the wheel is turned is can be real loose.

I've used the wood method with no problems.
This is not to say that any other method is better or worse.
Click to expand...
Mike, you're funny!!:D You just made my day!:DGregg, My son, says I am "OUT OF ROUND," but my drums are EL-PERFECTO!
He recalls when I was halucinating & in La-La land for 3 1/2 weeks about 2 years ago from a bad reaction to Flexarill, a muscle relaxant! Man! the stories my brain created!:eek: I remember them vividly.:p I may write a book about it, titled, "TO HELL & BACK BY THE SKIN OF MY FENDER." Bill W.
 
Sounds like Mike used the same wood method that you said you tried. The wooden stick. Guess you still have no brakes yet?
 
OK, I will add my method, given to me by a retired Ford Garage mechanic. He said that when the Model A was new and needing an adjustment they would:

Get all four wheels off the ground. Next undo the brake rods at the adjustable end. Tighten all the brake adjusting wedges until the wheels will not turn. Now tighten the brake rod adjustments until you can just get the clevis pin back in. Next is backing off the adjustment wedge until the wheel turns. Put the car back on its wheels and you are done.

Of course this is assuming that your brake parts are in good operating condition.
 
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