Brake adjustment

Very early cars are adjusted per the early service bulletin for the equalizer type brakes. After mid to late 1928, they are mostly all adjusted about the same way.
 
JayJay said:
I assume you are asking how to do it. If you search for Paul Shinn videos on YouTube, he has an excellent video describing the process.
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One thing to NOT DO that Paul does, ... DO NOT oil the brake rod clevises or pins.

Regards
Bill
 
Before you adjust the brakes, assuming they are not all rebuilt, check for proper function. Take the hubs off and inspect the brakes, looking for worn parts or parts that are not working properly.

After you adjust the brakes per the videos, take the car out for a brake check. The car should stop within 24 feet at 20 mph on level dry asphalt. And should not pull to one side or the other. Make minor adjustments as needed until you are satisfied with the stopping.

The videos will say to adjust the brakes so that they are biased towards the rear. I have found better stopping with the brakes biased towards the front.
 
JayJay said:
Bill - I don’t oil them, but what would be the rationale for not doing so? Gunk buildup?
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Correct, the dirt and grime would be attracted to the oil and cause the pins and clevises to prematurely wear.

Regards
Bill
 
BillCNC said:
Correct, the dirt and grime would be attracted to the oil and cause the pins and clevises to prematurely wear.

Regards
Bill
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Bill, I will play Devil's Advocate with you on this. I think this is a comment that has been passed down amongst Model-Aers for a long time only because it seems believable, -and not because it is factual.

Starting with the beginning. The button head on the clevis pin protects the one side from debris. The cotter pin when properly installed will shield about 75% of the circumference of the opposite side from debris. So we honestly have about the same 'debris seal' as what we would around a spring hanger (shackle) greased joint. Therefore exactly how much dirt & debris are we expecting this oil or grease is going to attract? For the record, the only reason we lube the spring hanger bushings is because the repetitions of the spring hanger's rotation when driving vs. the brake pin's rotation is likely in the 10,000s to 1 in comparison.

The opposite point to make is; In considering a possible (-available) 360° rotation of the clevis pin, how much rotation actually happens when the brake levers are pulled? Maybe 10°-15° at most?? So exactly how much pin & lever wear could be eliminated by the lube when there is only that amount of rotation??? I would like to hear Larry Shepherd's opinion also, but my opinion is that lubing the pins, -or not lubing them will likely find the pins will wear at around the same rate anyway.
 
So the same button-headed pin is used to connect the clutch actuating arm to the adjustable link, and a similar application is the clevis in the clutch pedal. I lube the clevis in the clutch pedal, but haven't (probably by habit more than analytical thinking) lubed the clevis between the adjustable link and the clutch actuating arm. Interesting discussion.

Be careful with "dry lube". While it goes on as liquid and then "dries" after application, it will build up into a hard waxy goo that is quite difficult to remove. "Dry lube" is used quite often to lubricate bicycle chains, and after a while the buildup of the goo is very noticable on the sprockets, so much so that you have to dismount the sprockets and soak them in solvent to get them clean. They shift oh so much smoother after that.
 
Brake adjustment with these monsters is critical and different from any you may have done before.
Start with each wheel, make sure everything is working as it should and adjust it/them with rods disconnected. Then attach the rods and adjust them. At least that's how I do it. I also use a brake adjustment board which most folks don't like. But when do right they'll last for a long time with only a 'click' of adjustment once in awhile. They'll lock up all 4 at 30 MPH. You can get them set just the way you like with a little playing. Carry the adjuster with you, its easy to give a 'click' whenever or wherever you are.
 
I found after adjusting as best I could, that taking the rig on a gravel road, get it going maybe 10 or so mph, then slam on the breaks. The skid marks tell you how well you adjusted the breaks.
 
I really don’t understand the comments about problems adjusting brakes on a Model A.

If your cars braking system has been “Properly” rebuilt back to as from the factory. To adjust is a maintenance issue only. A click here, two clicks there.

Worn out or improperly worked on systems are a real problem to adjust.

Did Ford issue a board to its dealers to be used when adjusting brakes?

My advise is to do it right the first time, rebuild the complete system, all of it. Now your done.
 
Here is the reply given from a popular AI platform, to give an example of how useless the answers are:

"Adjusting the brakes on a 1929 Ford Model A involves a manual process as the vehicle's braking system is not equipped with modern automatic adjustments. Here's a general guide to adjusting the brakes on a Model A:

1. Park the Vehicle: Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface and engage the parking brake.

2. Access the Brake Adjustment Area: Locate the brake adjustment area on each wheel. On the Model A, there is an access hole on the brake drum cover that allows you to reach the adjuster.

3. Remove the Cover: Remove the cover by either unscrewing it or prying it off gently using a suitable tool.

4. Adjust the Brake Shoes: Inside the drum, you'll see the brake shoes. Each shoe has an adjusting screw that pushes against the brake drum when the brakes are applied. Using a suitable brake spoon or flathead screwdriver, rotate the adjusting screw clockwise to expand the brake shoes until you feel a slight drag on the drum.

5. Test the Wheel: Spin the wheel by hand and make sure it turns freely without excessive drag. If it drags too much, back off the adjusting screw slightly by rotating it counterclockwise.

6. Repeat for Other Wheels: Repeat steps 3 to 5 for the remaining wheels. It's important to adjust all wheels evenly to maintain balanced braking.

7. Reinstall the Covers: Once all the adjustments are made, reinstall the brake drum covers by either screwing them back on or gently tapping them into place.

8. Test the Brakes: Start the vehicle and test the brakes by applying them gently while driving at a slow speed. Ensure the vehicle comes to a smooth and controlled stop without any pulling to one side.

9. Fine-Tune if Necessary: If the brakes still feel weak or if there is uneven braking, repeat the adjustment process, fine-tuning the brake shoes until they provide even and effective braking.

It's worth noting that this is a general guide, and the specific process for adjusting the brakes on a 1929 Ford Model A may vary slightly depending on the vehicle's condition and any modifications made over the years. If you're unsure or unfamiliar with the process, it's recommended to consult a qualified mechanic or refer to the vehicle's manual for detailed instructions."
 
Regarding the comments by WHN in post #17. That is correct. Once you have the brakes properly repaired and adjusted you only need to do a click or two on each wheel when it comes time to get less pedal travel. A maintenance thing.
 
nkaminar said:
Regarding the comments by WHN in post #17. That is correct. Once you have the brakes properly repaired and adjusted you only need to do a click or two on each wheel when it comes time to get less pedal travel. A maintenance thing.
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Yep, as said. Once this job is done correctly it'll be good for quite awhile and just requiring a 'click or 2' every now and agin.
 
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