brake adjustment

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Iceberg7643

Junior Member
So, checking and adjusting the brakes today, I came upon the front right actuating arm, adjustment #1 failed. All other brakes adjusted perfect to 4.
Is there something wrong with the arm or brake?
 
More info needed. If you referring to the 15 degree angle of the front arms then the brake rod lengths should not be changed when adjusting the brakes. They should be factory adjusted to provide the 15 degrees and then left alone. All adjustment should be done with the adjusters. If you cannot get the brakes into adjustment with the adjusters then you need new shoes or the pellets that fit under the rods, see https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977561&cat=41655.

The adjustment is tested by an actual brake skid test. There should be no pulling to one side or the other and the back tires should both leave marks on the asphalt. You should be able to stop within 25 feet at 20 mph. If not make minor adjustments (one click at a time) until the skid test is good.
 
Iceberg7643 said:
So, checking and adjusting the brakes today, I came upon the front right actuating arm, adjustment #1 failed. All other brakes adjusted perfect to 4.
Is there something wrong with the arm or brake?
Click to expand...

More than likely "not wrong", just not properly set up or adjusted. if all three other brakes are fine, then it is going to be some combination of adjusting the brake adjusting wedge either out or in depending on what the issue is, and then doing final adjustment with the brake rod if need be.

With the board, you do not adjust one wheel at a time, you are working all four wheels at the same time for each step on the adjusting board.
 
Paul's video shows the rods being disconnected. You should never have to do that unless they have been changed to a wrong length by a previous person. The rods should be the right length as described in the Service Bulletins. The right length is so that the front lever arms are at 15 degrees forward with the brake pedal not pressed. The rear arms should be about 5 degrees back. Once the rods are at the right length, do not change them.

All the brake adjustment should be done with the adjusters. You can use the wood tool to get them close but the real test is a skid test. Drive the car at 20 mph and jam on the brakes. The car should stop within 25 feet and the rear tires should both leave black marks on dry asphalt. The car should not pull to one side or the other. Make one notch adjustments to correct any problems and try again.

If you cannot bring any brake into adjustment then there is something wrong. The shoes are worn, the drum is worn, there is a mechanical problem, or the adjustment shims are needed.
 
I have been working on my brakes for over a year now. The first mistake I made was adjusting the rods. However, I finally got new rods from Snyders. Notice the difference in the length of the rods. The one on the left is a new rod and on the right is my old rod. After close inspection of the old rods, I think they may have been cut at some point. Finally, I have enough rod to adjust.
 

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At some point point the rods were not adjustable, see page 259 of the service bulletins. The lengths of the front and rear rods were 51 1/2 to 51 7/16 inches. At some point the adjustable rods were re introduced but the rods from the factory were set to a length and the instructions were to not change the length. On page 299 of the service bulletins the length of the adjustable rods was set to the above length and the instructions were "this adjustment must not be altered."

Over the years things get worn and changed. I think it is alright to change the length of the rods but that the rules regarding the angles of the arms should be followed and once the rods are adjusted they should not be changed and all brake adjustments done with the brake adjusters.
 
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Rods are adjusted to remove actuation play. The brake stick is used only after all four wheels are off the ground, the car is in neutral with e brake released. It’s not necessary to use the four notch method, just apply firm pressure to the brake pedal. Once this is done turn each front wheel by hand and use the adjuster to match the “drag” then do the same on the rear but create a heavier drag than the front.Next is skid test, rears should skid evenly ( eyeball the skid marks) front should pull down straight and not skid. Tweak the adjusters slightly to even the skid marks or to tune a “pull” out of the front…
 
jack backer said:
Rods are adjusted to remove actuation play. The brake stick is used only after all four wheels are off the ground, the car is in neutral with e brake released. It’s not necessary to use the four notch method, just apply firm pressure to the brake pedal. Once this is done turn each front wheel by hand and use the adjuster to match the “drag” then do the same on the rear but create a heavier drag than the front.Next is skid test, rears should skid evenly ( eyeball the skid marks) front should pull down straight and not skid. Tweak the adjusters slightly to even the skid marks or to tune a “pull” out of the front…
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The advantage to the notch method is that you can adjust them by yourself because you cant push the pedal and check wheels by yourself. It also gives a consistent point to adjust to, the same amount of pressure is applied at each notch at each stage. Again no guessing if I got the pedal at the same spot for each adjustment. Brake rods are adjustable because they are made to be adjustable. :eek: They were only non-adjustable for a very short time in mid 1928. they quickly went away from that, obviously for a reason.
 
I use a stick but the four notch method is overkill, once you equalize drag on fronts and rear with a bias to the rear under any brake pressure increasing pedal pressure is moot.
 
nkaminar said:
At some point point the rods were not adjustable, see page 259 of the service bulletins. The lengths of the front and rear rods were 51 1/2 to 51 7/16 inches. At some point the adjustable rods were re introduced but the rods from the factory were set to a length and the instructions were to not change the length. On page 299 of the service bulletins the length of the adjustable rods was set to the above length and the instructions were "this adjustment must not be altered."

Over the years things get worn and changed. I think it is alright to change the length of the rods but that the rules regarding the angles of the arms should be followed and once the rods are adjusted they should not be changed and all brake adjustments done with the brake adjusters.
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There ya go !
 
I have purchased all new rods, rebuilt the brakes, rebuilt the actuator arms, new pins inside king pins. AND was going by Paul Shins video at adjusting the brakes exactly. Brake pads are within specs. Now, as I read on here, its contradicting on the how to.
 
The method I use after doing a brake job is to use a temperature gun. I drive the car and apply and hold the brakes slightly. Then pull over and take the temperature of the drums. I back off the hottest one(s) and turn in the cooler one(s). Then drive some more applying the brakes and repeat the temperature measurement. When all four are close to the same temperature, the brakes work great with no pulling to either side.
 
Ken B said:
The method I use after doing a brake job is to use a temperature gun. I drive the car and apply and hold the brakes slightly. Then pull over and take the temperature of the drums. I back off the hottest one(s) and turn in the cooler one(s). Then drive some more applying the brakes and repeat the temperature measurement. When all four are close to the same temperature, the brakes work great with no pulling to either side.
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X2. Exactly the method that I use. I try to equalize the temperatures to within 20 deg. F. I would only add that I start out with gentle braking and then as I finish this process, I end up braking pretty aggressively as my final step.
 
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