Brake adjustment

bluedog

bluedog

Member
I am struggling to get my brakes adjusted using the notched board method. If I adjust them to get the rears locked with the pedal depressed two inches, when the pedal is released the rears are rubbing heavily. Similar on the front. Am I missing something? Any help would be much appreciated.
 
I'm one of the few here that likes the notched board.
But, once each wheel/brake is properly set with the wedge, leave it alone.
I then use the clevis which takes quite of bit of time and sometimes creative language.
 
throw the board away or use it as firewood:
THESE ARE PURDYS INSTRUCTIONS::::::::

To properly set up the brakes remove all of the brake rod clevis pins at the adjustable end. Prop the brake pedal up at the top of its travel. adjust the pedal rod at the clevis so that there will be no more than a 1/16th gap between the plunger end that meets the brake light switch and the inside back of the center cross member . Connect the clevis end of the pedal shaft to the brake pedal with it propped at the top of its travel. If the brakes are in good adjustment at the wheels, adjust all of the free play out of each brake rod at the clevis end so that the clevis pin will just enter. your front actuating levers should be 15 deg forward and the service brake cross shaft levers just about vertical.
 
Bluedog,

I have used the "board" method and it is hard to make the brake go from "nothing" to "full on" in that amount of brake travel.

I would welcome some info on the subject.

Marc
 
The Ford Service Bulletins describe a procedure that is essentially the board method. The board is used to allow one to make the adjustment by yourself. It is on page 202, which is the first page of the green service bulletin book. I have used the board method with great success on both of my cars. That said, everything else needs to be in proper order. The Les Andrews book has a detailed description of the process.
 
A little later this summer I'll bring in a 34 V8 truck its a 3 axle with the back axle being a tag, from what I see the brakes look the same as a Model A only bigger,will Les's book cover these also or would I need to look elsewhere.
 
From the Ford service bulletins:

"......pull the brake pedal all the way back until it is against its stop - then adjust the rod until there is about 1/16” clearance between end of rod and rear flange of center cross member (leaving a little clearance between end of rod and cross member prevents any possibility of the end of the rod rubbing against the cross member and causing a squeak).

"After adjusting the brake pedal to cross rod, assemble side pull rods to brake operating and cross shaft end levers. When assembling the side pull rods, pull the brake operating levers on the front axle back and the brake operating levers on the rear axle forward (taking up all idle movement). Then with the levers in this position adjust the side pull rods so they can be assembled to brake operating and cross shaft end levers.

Next adjust brakes by turning up the adjusting wedges as described on page 202 of the January, 1928, Bulletin. After the brake rods have been correctly adjusted car owners should be notified that this adjustment must not be altered. Service brake adjustments must be made only by means of the adjusting wedge at each brake."

From page 202:

"Make all adjustments with brakes cold. Jack up all four wheels. Release hand brake lever. See that wheels revolve freely. Turn the adjusting wedge at each brake (not the pull rod) until the brake drags, then back off the wedge 2 or 3 notches or just enough to allow the wheels to revolve without drag. On new cars brakes will sometimes drag slightly for ¼ or ½ revolution, due to slight high spots. Some judgment must be used in setting such brakes, for if the adjusting wedge is backed off sufficiently to allow the wheel to revolve freely, the brake pedal will go all the way to the floor board when the brakes are hot. A slight drag in one or two spots will do no harm, as the brake will soon free up when the car is driven a short distance and the brake drum slightly expands due to the heat generated. For this reason, brakes should not be adjusted with the drums hot, as when the drum contracts upon cooling it would cause the brakes to drag. To insure correct equalization have one man only check the brake pressure by rotating the wheel. If the above adjustments are correctly made the brakes should operate as follows:

1. Rear brakes should just start to hold when brake pedal is depressed approximately 1 inch.
2. Depressing pedal about 1/2 inch farther should tighten but not lock rear brakes and cause front brakes to just start to hold.
3. Depressing pedal approximately another l/2 inch should lock rear wheels and hold the fronts very tightly. With properly adjusted brakes this should not exceed one-half of the total possible pedal movement.
 
Success! It seems the key is to have your brake rods 51 1/2 inches long. My back rods were correct but the fronts were too long. Once these were adjusted it becomes much more balanced between front and rear and not much shoe adjustment is required at each of the steps in the board. Just taken it for a spin and it is working well. I will redo it after the shoes have bedded in. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Mitch//pa said:
throw the board away or use it as firewood:
THESE ARE PURDYS INSTRUCTIONS::::::::

To properly set up the brakes remove all of the brake rod clevis pins at the adjustable end. Prop the brake pedal up at the top of its travel. adjust the pedal rod at the clevis so that there will be no more than a 1/16th gap between the plunger end that meets the brake light switch and the inside back of the center cross member . Connect the clevis end of the pedal shaft to the brake pedal with it propped at the top of its travel. If the brakes are in good adjustment at the wheels, adjust all of the free play out of each brake rod at the clevis end so that the clevis pin will just enter. your front actuating levers should be 15 deg forward and the service brake cross shaft levers just about vertical.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mitch for posting PURDYS quick simple instructions
 
Thanks Bob,I'll get the one at Amazon,that should cover both as I'll have the V8 and a 32 BB to deal with later.
 
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