klrh20frank
Member
rebuilding a 31 coupe. all brake rods connected . when i started adusting the brakes three of the adjusters are stuck. will not turn either way. any help would be appreciated.thanks
brake adjusting
- Thread starter klrh20frank
- Start date
klrh20frank
Member
I might add Car was hard to roll. thought it was the new transmission and OD. Now it is probably something in brakes. Wheels will all turn.
klrh20frank
Member
Pulled the wheel and hub off and so not see anything, but the eyes i use are novice eyes. don't know what i am looking for.
nkaminar
Well-known member
You will need to screw out the adjusters and retap the holes. Soak with some penetrant spray and let it sit over night. Try working the adjuster back and forth. If necessary use some heat from a heat gun or torch. If you use the torch be careful not to use too much heat or set the car on fire. Heat the backing plate where the adjusting wedges screw in, not the adjusting wedges.
The wrench sold by the vendors for adjusting the brakes will give you some additional leverage.
Once the adjusters are moving, remove the shoes and screw the adjusters all the way in so that they pop off the dust caps inside the brakes and continuing to screw them in until they come out.
Buy or borrow a tap to rethread the holes. I forget what size the tap should be, but take one adjuster to the hardware store to get the tap.
Put a thin coating of grease or anti seize on the threads and reinstall the adjusting wedges. Reinstall the dust caps using a socket wrench and peen over the edge of the hole that they go into in a couple of places to keep them in place.
The wrench sold by the vendors for adjusting the brakes will give you some additional leverage.
Once the adjusters are moving, remove the shoes and screw the adjusters all the way in so that they pop off the dust caps inside the brakes and continuing to screw them in until they come out.
Buy or borrow a tap to rethread the holes. I forget what size the tap should be, but take one adjuster to the hardware store to get the tap.
Put a thin coating of grease or anti seize on the threads and reinstall the adjusting wedges. Reinstall the dust caps using a socket wrench and peen over the edge of the hole that they go into in a couple of places to keep them in place.
Last edited:
J Franklin
Well-known member
With the drum off does the adjuster turn? If not, things are rusted up.
klrh20frank
Member
Sorry, I was not clear on my description. The brakes were rebuild several months ago with new parts. Thanks for your input.
J Franklin
Well-known member
Answer this one: With the drum off does the adjuster turn?
nkaminar
Well-known member
Why do you need to tap the threaded hole for the adjustment wedge? For some reason the threads that Ford put in the backing plates are not correct for the standards of today. Why? I don't know, but it may be that the standards have changed or that Ford had their own standards.
Why have they seized up? It could be rust. When you install the adjustment wedges use a small amount of grease of anti seize.
Why have they seized up? It could be rust. When you install the adjustment wedges use a small amount of grease of anti seize.
klrh20frank
Member
Problems solved. I was afraid to put sufficient muscle on the three adjusting wedges. i guess all the cars i have worked on have been worn enough that the adjusting wedges turned with a lot less force. while speaking with a fellow Model A guy he suggested i use a 12-point socket and a breaker bar. All new parts required a lot more force to adjust. once it was moved one notch it was a lot easier. Brakes have been adjusted. Sorry if i was not clear on the original problem statement. thanks for your help.