Boyce Moto Meter Head Bolt for sensor

3

31 RPU

Senior Member
I have a Boyce motor meter made for a model A to mount on steering column.
It has a sensor, that I was told mounts in a hollowed out head bolt. Is this correct? Could the head bolt still be torqued if it is hollow? Does anyone have one they would sell?
 
I have one but can't get to it right now. Not for sale.
It is about 3 1/2" tall. Made from 11/16" or 3/4" hex stock.
Only the top is hollow. About 1 1/2'" deep to accommodate the sensor.
Bottom is drilled and tapped to fit the original head stud.
The top is threaded to allow the sensor to be attached.
It can be torqued.
A machinist could make one.
 
So it doesn't actually insert into the head inside the bolt, it is outside of the head above the hex head of the bolt. It is just all made together out of one piece?
 
I have two Boyce Moto Meters that I picked up at an auction. One is mostly intact and may actually work...though the sensor lead was chopped off at the sensor. Wondering if it's possible to replace the sensor???? And replicating that head bolt could be an interesting challenge - are there any out there?

Thanks.
 
I have a headbolt that was replicated from an original at a machine shop. They knew what they were doing. They tested the original to see what grade it was and then went to work. Attached are the original instructions that would have come with it and pictu aredballinst2.jpg

aredballinst4.jpgre of the entire set up as new.

There are places that can replace the bulb. I have lost his card, but it was in Oregon.
 
I think this is a thermocouple arrangement. If so, I have one on each of my cars. Just had a thought - why not make a special head nut to accept the sensor so you don't have to touch the stud.
 
I have one of these and would sell it. I do not know if it is operating condititon, as I have never installed it, but would sell it as a conversation piece.
 

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I made an adapter like MAG describes back in the '70's it worked OK but was so far removed from the water jacket it took a long time to react to temp. changes so made an adapter to fit the sensor that screwed into the back of the gooseneck, much better.
The Red Ball motometers are expensive to repair as their working pressure is 90-100 PSI, about 10 times higher than the other gauges available.
 
it wont be a problem to torque to the low 55lbs of the model A. A rusty original head stud will hold to 120lbs. And that will only happen when your to new and too busy to check what the torque spec should be. But not too busy to do the lengthy repair of drilling and retapping the rear most head stud.
 
If the motometer IS repairable, Williamson's Instruments in Arkansas can repair it. Often, the small bulb at the end of the tube is missing or damaged. They can replace or repair them and "tune-up" the meter. It won't be quick and may be pricey depending on what the condition is. I've had three or four re-done and have no hesitation recommending them.
It's worth looking them up & giving them a call.
 
31 RPU said:
I have a Boyce motor meter made for a model A to mount on steering column.
It has a sensor, that I was told mounts in a hollowed out head bolt. Is this correct? Could the head bolt still be torqued if it is hollow? Does anyone have one they would sell?
Click to expand...

This is a picture that Joop posted in the past.

In it, you can see clearly how the bolt was made. I would think a machine shop could make one up for you. I'm not nearly good enough on using my lathe to volunteer. Tom how about you, up to the challenge? Have any hex stock hanging around?

34709
 
Some years ago someone made the head bolt for these, don't remember who did it but you might look at various websites for vendors. We ran one for years but moved to the modern temp gauge because the motometer doesn't actually show degrees just operating temp etc.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
This is a picture that Joop posted in the past.

In it, you can see clearly how the bolt was made. I would think a machine shop could make one up for you. I'm not nearly good enough on using my lathe to volunteer. Tom how about you, up to the challenge? Have any hex stock hanging around?

34709
Click to expand...

I'd leave the original stud and make a double ended nut to receive the sender.
 
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