I know this is a touchy subject but I am going to box my 34 frame. I have used Wescott's frame diagram for the locating the weld nuts for the body on the top rails and for the gas tank. But it is unclear for the running board bracket mounts and the front fender braces and inner brackets and door brackets. I haven't found a listing for weld nut placements for a 3W coupe but I have searched for them. This is a first time doing it and I want to make sure that it is done right, Thanks
Boxing 1934 Ford Frame
- Thread starter spdster
- Start date
rich b
Well-known member
Seriously; why would you want to box a post '32 frame. They are strong enough for most any engine you would run on the street and then some.
Even if you have to box the front for IFS the area between the X where the boards and the door posts bolt down won't need it.
But; if you do, just look at your front fender braces, inner fender panels, fenders, running boards, rear tail supports, and the body side bolts on your body, and mark the corresponding frame holes for anchors.
Even if you have to box the front for IFS the area between the X where the boards and the door posts bolt down won't need it.
But; if you do, just look at your front fender braces, inner fender panels, fenders, running boards, rear tail supports, and the body side bolts on your body, and mark the corresponding frame holes for anchors.
bill3337
Senior Member
On my '37 which is staying somewhat original body and trim wise, I mocked up the whole body including running boards and fenders and found all the original holes that I would need. The other holes I welded up and the ones I knew I would be using I welded 1/4" x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 plate behind. Before I tapped the holes, I assembled the body (to check for all fits etc) and marked the centers for the running board bolts and other key locations, marked the centers, tapped the holes before I started prepping the frame for paint. I used 1/8" plate to box the inside rails. I guess you could drill and install nutserts instead of welding plates inside, but felt more comfortable with the plates.
First 33/34 chassis I built I used all bolt on mts. I did a SBC with 350 turbo, CE center X mts. CE Pedal setup. Maverick rear on a CE rear spring kit. I split the bones and made bolt on mts on the frame and fabricated a bolt on Vega mount and bolt on front panard. I chopped the 5 window coupe 4 inchs and drove the hell out of that car and the frame was good enough that when I sold it with about 40 K on the meter the body and fenders had no cracks. I did a stock 33/34 customer frame a couple of years ago and only boxed it for the motor mounts and a small area in the rear for the model a cross member. Didn't have to box for the steering as we used one of Neal's 37 Hudson boxes.
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I would mock up the whole body including running boards and fenders and find all the original holes that I would need if I had all the parts but this is/was a basketcase. A rusty body and a bare frame and a few parts picked up thru Ford Barn ads. I will be running a 50's Mercury flathead but if it doesn't cut the mustard a later FORD motor will be moving in, since it is apart now kinda planning ahead. Steering will either be Vega box or Unisteer. I have considered using Bill3337's method that is an option especially if I mount the shock with the front fender braces.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
It's your frame, but there is no rational for doing this that I am aware of. Why make life more difficult than it needs to be? It is easy to warp a frame.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
I would suggest if you feel the need to box some areas, just box these areas, not the entire frame. Should be very few of them. IF you were installing a V8, you might want to box the motor mount areas. Another candidate might be the steering box mount. The last area that comes to mind would be parallel spring mounts, that's about it.