I have the truck block fully stripped. I turned up a tool on the lathe to remove and install the cam bearings. I have a question. I have removed the fuel pump pushrod and I will be using an electric pump so it will not be going back. I have read that the hole the pushrod goes through has to be plugged to maintain oil pressure... My question is about the sleeve I can see in the hole... Should I take that out also or just plug the top of the sleeve??
Bought three Flathead V8 engines yesterday
- Thread starter gavinnz
- Start date
Thanks, I can knock one of those up on the lathe!
Not heard back from the cleaning and crack testing yet, so I have turned my attention to other lose bits. I removed both ring gears, cleaned them and found the under all the dirt and crap one was in really good nick. So I cleaned it up even more and shrunk it back onto the flywheel I modified to take the marine shock damper.
Looked at my starter which still turns, but how I don't know as the housing is pitted with rust over half way through the thickness of the metal! I am looking for a rebuildable starter locally.
Then I looked at the water pumps.... I want to use the bodies of the truck pumps as they have great mounting points for the engine in the boat. But they have the wide pullies. I have one narrow pulley from the car engine so I need another to make a set.
So still making progress.
Looked at my starter which still turns, but how I don't know as the housing is pitted with rust over half way through the thickness of the metal! I am looking for a rebuildable starter locally.
Then I looked at the water pumps.... I want to use the bodies of the truck pumps as they have great mounting points for the engine in the boat. But they have the wide pullies. I have one narrow pulley from the car engine so I need another to make a set.
So still making progress.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
That is a good approach if you never see the possibility of reverting to a manual fuel pump at a future date. If that is a possibility, the plug is easy to remove by just taking the intake off.
).
dumb person
Well-known member
If the starter is pitted, that's not a problem as long as the coils inside are, or can be insulated. Mine has pitting about that deep.
I had thought that if the outside was so rusted that the inside would be toast, but maybe I need to take a closer look inside and see if it can be salvaged.
My flathead had a bloody good day parts wise today! The new adjustable lifters arrived from the USA.... Two divers helmet dizzys and ht lead pipes arrived.... Thanks Brain! And I went to see another chap and came away with a 3 bolt front plate, early cam to suit the divers helmet dizzy, factory oil filter, dip stick,
Attachments
I fitted the cam in my spare mock up engine, then went to fit the dizzy and the thing will not fit!!! No one told me that the divers helmet dizzy will not fit with 8ba narrow crank pulley! So I will go and get the wide pulley back from the engine reconditioners tomorrow and see if that fits...... Nothing is ever simple....
The boat motor had another good week. Weiand 400 heads arrived. A set of marine wet exhaust manifolds and a rebuilt 1 1/6 carb. Plus the pulley saga in another thread.
Back to thinking of a cam now. The 8BA cam already has 8mm so it should regrind well with plenty of meat. Thinking about an Isky 88 grind at this stage with 0.332 or 8.43 lift and 276 advertised duration, 226 at 0.5. I think it will compliment the high compression head and the 0.125 over bore well? Thoughts?
Sticking with a single 1 1/6 carb now. I have cut down a 1935 manifold (it had been damaged and welded so it was a good candidate to modify for marine use) to get more deck clearance and eliminated the exhaust running thought the manifold.
Back to thinking of a cam now. The 8BA cam already has 8mm so it should regrind well with plenty of meat. Thinking about an Isky 88 grind at this stage with 0.332 or 8.43 lift and 276 advertised duration, 226 at 0.5. I think it will compliment the high compression head and the 0.125 over bore well? Thoughts?
Sticking with a single 1 1/6 carb now. I have cut down a 1935 manifold (it had been damaged and welded so it was a good candidate to modify for marine use) to get more deck clearance and eliminated the exhaust running thought the manifold.
tubman
Well-known member
I'd wait on the Isky "88" cam until some more folks chime in. I've never used that particular cam, but I seem to remember that it is not a whole lot better than stock. This is just a preliminary comment, so some more information would be helpful. I have no experience with a flathead in marine use, but I have a whole lot with SBC's in Mercruisers. I think you may want a "marine grind", which (in an SBC, at least) has completely different characteristics than an automotive street cam.
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
The Iaky 88 cam doesn't have those kind of numbers if my memory is correct. If the boat is for racing then a long duration cam is the right one. However if you want a runabout then a cam with 235 at 050" lift would be better. Yhe size of the prop will determine the RPN of the engine. I ran an L100 in a 258 ci engine and it preformed very well.