Bolts for engine stand

JayJay said:
'29 - forgot to mention. You may find that with your engine stand you need to make some tubular spacers, and get much longer bolts, to allow you to get the arms of the mounts around the end of the installed crankshaft. I did. My recollection is that I had to add about three inches. An alternative would be to bolt your engine stand to the side of the engine at the water inlet using this.
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You read my mind....I've been looking at this issue very closely today...I think my stand has almost the exact same tube lengths as this guy so I think I should be ok. I reckon somewhere between 3" and 4" bolts should do it.
3" 7/16th is the longest I can get locally so will have to order 4" just in case....the postage is more than the cost of the bolts!
 

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'29 Pickup said:
You read my mind....I've been looking at this issue very closely today...I think my stand has almost the exact same tube lengths as this guy so I think I should be ok. I reckon somewhere between 3" and 4" bolts should do it.
3" 7/16th is the longest I can get locally so will have to order 4" just in case....the postage is more than the cost of the bolts!
Click to expand...
I has to ADD 3" (or so) spacers to get the mount far enough out, even with the extended arms on the engine stand. My engine stand is the ubiquitous Chinese one available from many suppliers. So my bolts are like 7" or so. If I get up to the shop today I'll measure them out.
 
JayJay said:
I has to ADD 3" (or so) spacers to get the mount far enough out, even with the extended arms on the engine stand. My engine stand... So my bolts are like 7" or so. If I get up to the shop today I'll measure them out.
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This is what I ordered....shorter tubes than the one in my first post but the same as the last pic....his plate cleared the end of the crankshaft....had to stop the video several times to see it.


Edit: I dont think he had any spacers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNcB4a8GOK8
 
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'29 Pickup said:
This is what I ordered....shorter tubes than the one in my first post but the same as the last pic....his plate cleared the end of the crankshaft....had to stop the video several times to see it. He had no spacers.
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Looks just like the one I have. He doesn't have it bolted around the crankshaft, he has it bolted farther up on the flywheel housing mounts.
 
for best results (if have none) consider starting a nuts n bolts box set! mine is over 50 years old! longer actually. tip from my Dad year's ago. "Save nuts, bolts, washers..." (Dad: ace aviation mechanic in younger years/ArmyAirCorpsSplst) I have a handful of boxes quite full.

rarely do I have to run out to buy a nut, bolt or washer as used for general purpose use.
 
'29 Pickup said:
This is what I ordered....shorter tubes than the one in my first post but the same as the last pic....his plate cleared the end of the crankshaft....had to stop the video several times to see it.

Edit: I dont think he had any spacers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNcB4a8GOK8
Click to expand...

from my exp, they can tend to bend at the ears. i have half doz engine stands or thereabouts. i usually rig up a 2x4 etc front brace so once i have engine item off lift connect and lift so it does not excessively load the back of block and ears... ie, fasteners!

i want a balanced horizontal load factor not a 45-d loading load
 
Why not use the stand head for a A engine that mounts to the side of the block ? Long bolts not needed and after you use one I think that you'll find they work quite well
 
Phil Brown said:
Why not use the stand head for a A engine that mounts to the side of the block ? Long bolts not needed and after you use one I think that you'll find they work quite well
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I recently used one that held the engine by the water inlet bolts and a couple around the "skirt" of the block. I preferred that style because I could fit the flywheel housing, flywheel and clutch with the engine on the stand. Only the sump (pan) had to wait till it was on the hoist.
 
Synchro909 said:
Over here in the SE corner of the continent, imperial threads have disappeared from hardware stores but you can still het them from nut and bolt specialist outlets. I grew up with Whitworth threads and it it weren't for owning a Model A, I would have forgotten all about them. I recently sold a 1928 French car I restored over the past couple of years. Nuts and bolts were a breeze - all metric.
As has been said above, BSW and NC have the same thread count (up to 1/2") but different thread form. BSW is 55° thread form but NC is 60°. Why they changed things for 5° is a mystery to me.
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Our local hardware store, the one that starts with B and sells more sausages than a butcher, still has UNC and UNF nuts and bolts, as well as our local REplacement Part COmpany store. Probably because they have to compete with the local bearing shop, that sells real industrial hardware, and not sausages.
 
dave in australia said:
Our local hardware store, the one that starts with B and sells more sausages than a butcher, still has UNC and UNF nuts and bolts, as well as our local REplacement Part COmpany store. Probably because they have to compete with the local bearing shop, that sells real industrial hardware, and not sausages.
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Here we only have the place where you will find the dogalogue (as opposed to the catalogue). The nearest Bunnies, (where they force the snags on you before you get in the door), is a few hours away.
Our friends in the US may need Google translate for that one.
 
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