Bolting up the engine pans question.

1crosscut

Well-known member
I just got a set of repo engine pans and have a question on bolting them up to the oil pan. I would think that they bolt up to the bottom of the oil pan but the oil pan has a lip that if no shims are used it would put a serious bend in the tabs on the pans. What do you do when mounting the pans?
Dave
 
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They get bolted to the bottom of the pan. With repro pans you are going to have to do some bending of the metal to get everything to fit correctly; especially at the front.
 
Dave;

I mounted repro engine pans about two or three years ago and had the same issue. I forced the upset tabs into the lip on the oil pan and after a number of months the tabs started to break off. I welded them back together and then used flat washers between the oil pan lip and the tabs. I think that I used about two or three washers. I also believe that I replaced the four oil pan bolts with longer ones.

Dick
 
I'm going to have to go look at my pans. Suppose to be Brookville pans from Snyders. I haven't tried to install them yet, but I'm probably going to have this same problem.
 
Repop pans don't fit good at all. I can't remember if we had to bend the tabs or not, but I ended up just taking them off. I had to beat them into place everytime I took one off and finally I just ripped them both off and was done with it. I do however have an extra ground strap from the transmission to the frame to help keep the motor grounded. This is supposedly one of the purposes of the engine pans.
 
Dave;

I mounted repro engine pans about two or three years ago and had the same issue. I forced the upset tabs into the lip on the oil pan and after a number of months the tabs started to break off. I welded them back together and then used flat washers between the oil pan lip and the tabs. I think that I used about two or three washers. I also believe that I replaced the four oil pan bolts with longer ones.

Dick

I wondered if the tabs should have bends in them to fit the oil pan. Pretty simple thing to put the bends in them to fit but I think that I will go with the longer bolts and washers.

Paul - Actually they look as if they will fit pretty good. I got them off of Ebay from American Muscle Car Parts. Decent price and very fast shipping.

Thanks for your help guys.
Dave
 
just did it this weekend and the repops are bad and DONT FIT. i had to widen each hole and cust off the taps, once that was done i fitted them filed more and they fit fine now.
Good luck and be patient
 
If you want the spacer to make the repro pans fit, MAC'S has a bolt set on page 61, item # A6775/76MB that looks like it would take care of the problem.
 
Are those spacers or just square nuts?
 

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I think they look like square nuts.. Thats what was originally used.. Actually I also think those bolts really should be machine screws..
 
So where would you use the square nuts? Don't the pan bolts screw into a threaded hole in the block?
 
With that then, we are back to square one. Either bending the engine pan flanges or shimming up with some sort of spacer.
 
I don't think there is a real problem making and adding the spacers.. I did it in an attempt to eliminate some rattles and you don't even notice/see them..
 
The pans are supposed to have an upset bent into the tabs that go under the pan, to clear that lip.
I just checked the pans I got from Snyders (Brookville), and they do have the upset on the flange to clear the lip on the oil pan. I haven't put them on yet, so I can't verify how they fit.
 
I always thought that making a 2 1/2 inch stud out of all thread and then welding a nut to the all thread leaving an inch below the nut. Then I could install the pan and be able to easily remove the engine pans without disturbing the pan.
 
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