Bolt remover socket

3

30-9

Well-known member
Hi Gents

Another stripped bolt....ugh

Thinking about buying ABN bolt and nut remover sockets. Anyone have? Anyone suggest a reasonable priced set?
 
If you've got the room, a pipe wrench. If not, a jacobs chuck, Or homedepot, lowes and amazon have extractor socket kits for about $25. Jack E/NJ
 
Thanks - No room for pipe wrench. The ABNs are on Amazon.

Trying to determine if they work or if someone here has a set and recommend
 
I have and have used extractor sockets. I would say they have a 50% success rate with me. Be sure to use all the tried and true methods first. Heat would be my first attempt, striking the bolt head with a hammer and drift to break up any corrosion. Then heat it up again and tap on the extractor socket. Gently try to back it out being careful not to break it off. Have had some success with an impact wrench, short blips. Other then that, soak it with a good penetrating oil and repeat. Remember that too much muscle usually results in snapping it off. Good luck.
 
I'm with banjoQ, it sorta depends on what you are working with. Sometimes they work and sometime not. Rusted in studs or bolts are hard to remove with just an extractor of any kind. You really need something to break the rust bond, like the weld method. Anything that exceeds the bolt/stud strength is going to break bolt/stud again.
 
Ok thx. I’m in no rush. I don’t know how to weld. I’ve been pb blasting, torch and vise grips. Just don’t want to round it anymore than it is. I’ll try again tomorrow and if no luck I’ll order ABN.
 
What size is it? Sometimes you can pound on a metric socket that is just a tad smaller. Have you tried a 6 point socket? Impact wrenches are FAR more successful at busting loose stubborn nuts/bolts if you haven't already rounded them off.

Be sure to use proper form... Socket on STRAIGHT, and pulling straight/square while supporting the head of the ratchet.
 
"Sometimes".......you can try tightening the bolt "Slightly" and that will help break the hold of it, then loosen it.....at this point what do you have to loose....PLUS the tighten side of the flats are "Less" buggered up than the "loosen" side!!!
 
Might not have the luxury of doing this but I've cut mangled bolt heads off and welded on a nut..... if the bolt head is flush, you won't be doing that though.
 
Heat is also your friend. If you don't have a torch set, a MAPP gas set from Home Deport is pretty cheap and can get it some what hot enough to loosen the grip of rust. Repeated heating and cooling helps to loosen bolts. I also wick wax along the bolt while it's still red hot.
 
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If I'm getting this right, the hex of the bolt head is rounded, until a socket spins on it?

If that is the case, the way that I go about it, is to use a ***** punch and a hammer to turn it. It usually works, if the bolt isn't to rusted on the threads.

Make a indentation, at the outer edge of the bolt head first. Then, with sharp, hard blows, drive it CCW, until it will turn by hand or pliers.

I'm surprised I don't hear this method mentioned on this forum. It's a old mechanic/farmer method I learned from my mechanic dad, when a teen and have used it in this way and flush, broken bolts and suds.

Sometimes, it's the only way to tighten a bolt, too.
 
frnkeore said:
If I'm getting this right, the hex of the bolt head is rounded, until a socket spins on it?

If that is the case, the way that I go about it, is to use a ***** punch and a hammer to turn it. It usually works, if the bolt isn't to rusted on the threads.

Make a indentation, at the outer edge of the bolt head first. Then, with sharp, hard blows, drive it CCW, until it will turn by hand or pliers.

I'm surprised I don't hear this method mentioned on this forum. It's a old mechanic/farmer method I learned from my mechanic dad, when a teen and have used it in this way and flush, broken bolts and suds.

Sometimes, it's the only way to tighten a bolt, too.
Click to expand...
Works well if the bolt/nut (I tend to use this method more on nuts) are large enough and it a location you can get good access to.
 
frnkeore said:
If I'm getting this right, the hex of the bolt head is rounded, until a socket spins on it?

If that is the case, the way that I go about it, is to use a ***** punch and a hammer to turn it. It usually works, if the bolt isn't to rusted on the threads.

Make a indentation, at the outer edge of the bolt head first. Then, with sharp, hard blows, drive it CCW, until it will turn by hand or pliers.

I'm surprised I don't hear this method mentioned on this forum. It's a old mechanic/farmer method I learned from my mechanic dad, when a teen and have used it in this way and flush, broken bolts and suds.

Sometimes, it's the only way to tighten a bolt, too.
Click to expand...
Chisels work too. A couple blows on a sharp cold chisel next to the corner, then use a blunt square ended chisel to continue without cutting the corner completely off. We be crude n'stuff, but sometimes it will get you home. If you ever see a nut that's all chiseled up, this is probably what happened. Especially a large one. Sometimes you can just sharpen the corners enough to get a socket to grab again.
 
have a hunt thru your local tool store there are sockets made to do exactly this , for want of a better description an easy out that work on the outside the exact name escapes me but they do work and they grip tighter they more you turn
 
In one of Mart's videos, he used a "stud remover" that clamps over the bolt and attaches to a 1/2 socket bar. Looked pretty handy to me so I bought one but haven't had a need to use it yet.


It tightens down on various sized studs and bolts, so it can be used for more than just a single size.
 
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