Bolt On Crankshaft Counterweights
- Thread starter v8nut
- Start date
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
They work real well, I wouldn't drive a T with out them. After the first five sets 30 years ago, we found out that the bolts that come with the set, are to soft, and will stretch, we use Cat. bolts, and casetle nuts, Grade No. 8., fine thread. the Dun weights were made for the later T cranks, but they can be hand fit also to the earlier Diamond Web. We put a Cat. lock washer on the bolt put it through the weights, another lock washer on the other side, and then the casetle nut. The extra bolt length has to be cut off, as we use longer bolts,((( because shorter size they don.t have at Cat, may be other bolt Companys,))) with a small disk, and a hole drilled for a cotter pin. You have to get the weights centered between the rods equality. The crank has to have the Rods ground first, then the weights installed, THEN GRIND THE MAINS, if you grind the mains first, thightening the weights can TWEAK the mains out of alignment. Be sure to crack check the crank first, as the T cranks have a 60% crack rate in them. Center the crank in the grinder, at the area where the gear goes, you have to pull the gear any way for a new one. The rear is always centered off the out side of the flange that sets in the flywheel. Check run out on the back side of the rear flange, and front end of crank pulley, and seal to true them as needed. It will always give a longer bearing life, if your bearings were poured right, but the way you can actually tell the benefit, is when you shift from low to high, it takes the Bucking out of the shift, as there is more of a balanced momentum to gain higher R.P.M's. Herm.