Bogus

Mike, I just got back from a Jan. 4th cold Mississippi morning ride. I checked the brakes (as I always do) with pumping to a slow roll, hard brake for 20 mph and distance check for a 40 mph stop. I don't need to adjust the brakes for now.

I like the interaction I have with the major functions of the Model A. Those needs being; the car must go (internal combustion) and stop (mechanical brakes in this case).

I've scrapped knuckles and been coated in hydraulic fluid while priming lines on newer cars. I liked that for those vehicles when I got the same results of go then stop. At least I don't have to think of vertical drop (as I did when I worked on Huey's in the military) with either hydraulic or mechanical braking systems.
 
Ford Brakes work very well, but they have to be rebuilt to new.

They are no different then Motors, as you know. There are rebuilt Motors, and then there are REALLY rebuild motors!

There is nothing you can do to get the brakes to work like new, unless everything is put back to factory Spec's.

The only people that cussed the Model T and A's are the ones that run the cars when they were wore out, and it is still happening today. If your Brakes don't work, "FIX" "THEM".

I would never use stock drums, as heat can warp them. Drums have to be Arched after swaging. Shoes also have to be Arched, to fit the Arch of the drum, and many don't.

Then, all slop has to be taken out of the brake rod , and Lever assembly.

Roller and tract, and other parts, all need to repaired. We rebuild the roller track as the repro's I don't like.

If you do that, they work like Henry Intended. They will slide all four tires on black top. If they don't, you missed something.

Herm.
 
Fellas, if you've followed wingski's many posts (over 40 per month) he seems to fancy himself a humorist. Maybe we have the reincarnation of Will Rogers, or perhaps Jay Leno incognito! Some day we can tell our grandchildren we knew him when. :)
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
C'mon guys, knock it off before Ryan needs to get involved. It is getting a lot easier to be banned from the site.

I learned a lot about brake adjustment from the positive comments on this thread.
Thanks Purdy!
Click to expand...

As I read the last day's worth of posts and saw how many people were getting all lathered up about this, I thought exactly the same thing.
I also learned a lot from Purdy's method which makes perfect sense to me.
 
While we are talking brakes I would like to say this . Just because the brakes need adjusting certainly doesn't mean that evey part will need to be replaced . Most don't replace all of the parts on modern cars with shoe brakes when the brakes need adjusting . On the other hand a person can replace every part of the model A brakes and still have very poor brakes . If the brakes are not properly set up and adjusted correctly it doesn't matter if a person spends thousands on parts , the brakes will be poor. when the brake lining wears a bit but not completely worn out ,an adjustment can solve the problem and still give excellent results as it would on any car with shoe brakes. usually when model A brake lining wears a bit and needs adjustment the slack will also need to be adjusted out of the brake rods. Proper brake rod setup is also an adjustment that doesn't require replacement of parts . Brake rod setup can make the difference between very poor brakes and good brakes . I feel that it is about time that this was said . Replacing every part of the brakes has been repeated so many times that probably most newbees believe it is necessary .

When the brake lining wears to the point that it needs replacement . the brake tracks will also require attention . As the lining wears the roller pins wear a dip in the tracks . Wear on the tracks allows the shoes and lining to drop . If the lining is replaced the brakes will be out of center and most won't be able to get the drums back on . I also don't like the replacement brake tracks and there is NO guarntee that new tracks will center the brake shoes . I weld up the dip in the tracks and grind them back to level . A brake centering tool will tell whether the tracks need to be built up more or less to be centered . If the shoes aren';t pretty close to centered the drums won't have the necessary clearance to slip past the lining . Just a few more important thoughts about model A brakes . Modern cars with shoe brakes are full floating and don't require all of this work when the lining or new shoes are replaced .
 
The old Harleys I rode had brake rods and cables too, didn't seem too complicated so now I have four wheels to adjust instead of two. I vote for mechanical brakes on my A.
 
I think the A's mechanical brakes are very efficient for the vehicle,I have been driving it since 1962 with very little brake maintenance.I have a 1950 Merc. with a dual master cylinder for disc and drum brakes,I take long extended trips.I happen to check the master cylinder recently and found the rear res. empty,the rear imported wheel cylinders were leaking,surprise! I would stick to the mech. A brakes,not much benefit from the hydraulics for all the work involved.
 
x2 My brakes were poor.. then we rebuilt everything and back to org. spec except now cast drums. Stops great! Very few adjustments after 1st 200 miles.
Will last longer than I will !
 
History said:
I haven't watched the Tonight Show since Jay left. Jay is good people. :D
Click to expand...

Same with me. Since Dave and Jay left the late night shows, all that's on now is a bunch of left losers. It's more fun to watch the police channel with the losers driving stolen cars and try to outrun the cops. It's unreal more aren't killed in the crashes. BTW, it's called "MOST SHOCKING".

As far as Model A brakes, Herm said it all.:)
 
Mechanical vs juice.

I have a 60 car that has 1 master cylinder and my A brakes better, and with less fade. I always feel safer in the A, because I always wonder what is the master goes, or I burst a line.

I adjust the brakes without a board and slam the brakes on a paved road. If it doesn't pull, good. If it pulls I readjust.
 
I just had my brakes & drums rejuvenated by Randy Gross. I'll finish the install when I get back from vacation next week.
 
old31 said:
Mechanical vs juice.

I have a 60 car that has 1 master cylinder and my A brakes better, and with less fade. I always feel safer in the A, because I always wonder what is the master goes, or I burst a line.

I adjust the brakes without a board and slam the brakes on a paved road. If it doesn't pull, good. If it pulls I readjust.
Click to expand...

Probably the only choices would be to hit the emergency brakes or put it in reverse , if it has an automatic transmission. I once had to use reverse on an old Ford with A fordamatic transmission. The car would slow to a stop and then start backing up . I made it home without hurting the transmission . The problem turned out to be the vacume hose had came loose on the power brakes vacume tank .
 
FORGET THE STUPID BOARD ! !
There's been PAGES & PAGES of good info on adjusting the danged brakes, properly!!! Are we tryin' to INVENT a NEW WAY????
Bill Simple
 
old31 said:
Mechanical vs juice.

I have a 60 car that has 1 master cylinder and my A brakes better, and with less fade. I always feel safer in the A, because I always wonder what is the master goes, or I burst a line...
Click to expand...

Then there must be something wrong with your 60 car I think.
When you drive a car with "what if the master goes, or I burst a line" in your mind, you shouldn't drive anymore.:D
 
I find all the concern about failing hydraulic brakes amusing! I've been driving for 53 years. My 29 is the first car that didn't have juice brakes. With the exception of a failed ABS system on an 86 Pontiac 6000 STE, I have never had a catastrophic brake failure. Some of the cars I drove were real crap wagons! I thought I would need to convert my As brakes to hydraulics until I discovered the cost to do so. Being "thrifty" 2 grand and several days of skinned knuckles convinced me the old mechanicals would do the job. I do plan to buy a set of Randy's cast iron drums.
 
I had (still have) a 1994 4x4 ton with a dump and box type bed chevy 3500 full of fire wood. I was backing down a very steep hill (no place to turn around) and the back brake line burst. If I hadn't of had 4wd (as I quickly jerked it into) I'm not sure what the story would be.

I may switch the brakes on that truck to mechanical.:eek:
 
I find the debate on the use of mechanical brakes vs. hydraulics rather disingenuous. First off, as pointed out by many on this board, the proper restoration to factory specifications of a mechanical brake system is the answer to good braking. I concur. On the other hand, the naysayers of hydraulic systems point out to failures without noting the condition of the hydraulic system.

My choice of hydraulic brakes on my A's is based on the fact that I drive them almost on a daily basis. Both of my A's have been on the chassis dyno and produced 59 and 60 horsepower at the rear wheels. Like those people pointing out failures in hydraulic systems, I had a failure with a mechanical system and blew through a stop light due to severe brake fade with a car that had a properly adjusted system.

Like any braking system, maintaining a hydraulic system is just as important. In the interest of safety, I'm also using a clip to retain the drum in the event of a broken axle.

In the immortal words of Rodney King, "Can't we all just get a long"
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0639.jpg
    IMG_0639.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 74
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top