Body work using lead filler
- Thread starter cohammer60
- Start date
miker98038
Well-known member
I know nothing about body work, except what I've read. But I'm an electrician from the days we soldered and taped knob and tube. Your plumbing solder and ours was different even then. Go check the Eastwood site. There's new solder products and tools for automotive work, and you probably have the skill to use them. Different fluxes, etc, also. It's still considered the high art form in custom work, for guys who can do it themselves, or afford to pay more than scale.
There are people still using lead to do body work. Not just hi end restoration shops but home do it yourselfers as well.
Most body lead sold today seems to be a 70/30 mixture of lead and tin.
The biggest drawback is the initial start up costs. and the fact that it will take some practice which costs yet more money.
If done correctly a good lead job is 99% ready for paint when it has been finished filed.
Most body lead sold today seems to be a 70/30 mixture of lead and tin.
The biggest drawback is the initial start up costs. and the fact that it will take some practice which costs yet more money.
If done correctly a good lead job is 99% ready for paint when it has been finished filed.
cohammer60
Senior Member
Checked out the eastwood site , They do have a lot of modern products for body work . I believe I will get some new flux an use the lead to fill up several deep dings in my car. It still has several places in the body where lead was used and they seem to be holding up well. I have made a lot of lead flashing and done several repair jobs on tanks and duct work over the past 35 years I believe I will give it a shot .
JeffB2
Well-known member
Here is "The King of Lead" check out this and some of the videos,no one does it better: https://www.google.com/#q=bill+hines
I lead often, the area has to be spotless clean bare shiney metal for lead to work.
For the proper materials go to 'Johnsons' web site, they'll sell in small quantities, I'd suggest thier liquid flux.
There are things you need to be aware of before paint, I've been recently told that aluminum oxide sanding discs react with the lead somehow and will affect the paint after a few years. I haven't been able to confirm it, just passing it along.
Good luck and have fun, post up your results.
For the proper materials go to 'Johnsons' web site, they'll sell in small quantities, I'd suggest thier liquid flux.
There are things you need to be aware of before paint, I've been recently told that aluminum oxide sanding discs react with the lead somehow and will affect the paint after a few years. I haven't been able to confirm it, just passing it along.
Good luck and have fun, post up your results.
cohammer60
Senior Member
I have been looking at different flux or paste what type of flux is recommended , I don't want to use one that leaves acid residue that I can't get off .
blucar
Well-known member
In the mid '50's I thought that I wanted to be a body man. This was before plastic fillers. Good metal working skills were our only option, lead was not used to fill minor dings and dents, they were hammer and dollied out.
As a general rule more damage will be done to body sheet metal with a oxy torch, in the hands of an unskilled person. Plastic fillers, "Bondo" do a great job on minor dings/dents that can't be accessed to hammer out.
As a general rule more damage will be done to body sheet metal with a oxy torch, in the hands of an unskilled person. Plastic fillers, "Bondo" do a great job on minor dings/dents that can't be accessed to hammer out.
