Body to frame to help sagging doors

J

Jerold Ebke

Member
Friends,
A question about mounting body to frame in the future.
I have a 1930 Standard coupe and am just starting body work.
Body is on sawhorses.
My doors sagged at the back latch edge when body was on frame.
Chassis is done with drive train in place and frame looks straight as best I can measure.
Is it correct that by drawing down front body mount bolts and using appropriate shims in the mid and posterior body you can raise the latch end of the door in the opening by drawing the front of the body down closer to the frame by flexing the body in the door opening?
Is this draw down only the 2 mounting bolts at the firewall or is this also accomplished with the 4 mounting bolts between the firewall and the front of the door opening near the kick panel area?
There are also 2 mount bolts at the seat front and 2 at the back of the seat.
I ask because :
1) The passenger firewall bolt mount hole is poor condition and I am trying to anticipate how strongly it needs repair.
2) I am already looking ahead and have tried to research body mounting with blocks, shims and frame welt, but still have this question of should I be able to help door alignment in this manner ?
I have read you start at radiator and work back. A lot of patience and trial and error.
Thank you,
Jerry
 
Jerry a lot of printed nonsense about door alignment is from "He said/She said" when frames were bent/sagging and when door hinges were bent or worn. IMHO you need to re-mount the body onto the frame before you begin bodywork and work out your alignment issues now.

Does your #1 mounting points on the cowl have the reinforcement washers there? If the sill metal in that area is rusted or cracked, you need to repair that now before the bodywork process.
 
Brent always has good advice, you should consider it. Another thing you might check is the door hinges for proper alignment, a bent hinge can cause a problem.
 
Also, the hood is part of the alignment process. As Brent mentioned, the cowl is important and needs to be elevated/ lowered accordingly to get the hood /cowl gaps even when placed on the radiator. The Les Andrews Green book has some dimensions which may help
with the radiator/hood/ body assembly.
 
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I am going to hammer / dolly fenders bolted to frame or body. I will then as Brent suggests, set everything back on the frame and start shimming and see what happens. Once the mounting formula of how many shims where is hopefully determined, then dissemble and start on final finish.
Maybe more advice needed later.
Jerry
 
Double check your frame for square and level. A diagonal measurement will tell you if the frame is square. And a 4 foot straight edge down the top of the frame rails will tell you if there's no sag in the motor mount area. Then you'll be good to mount up the body and start your fitting. JP
 
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