Body to Frame Mounts

How about concentrated heat on the stud? Isn't it a bit over 200 degrees that enough expansion occurs?
 
Got it out. The acetone/ATF worked. Never heard of that so learn something new all the time. Started doing the next ones down the line and they just spin as the nuts are also rusted tight. So more to work on.
 
The weirdness continues. It appears that the stud bolt that goes under the seat are was never there, at least not since I have had it. #7 on the chart. Also the passenger side bolts come out easy while the drivers side are rusted solid, weird.
 

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56sedandelivery said:
The weirdness continues. It appears that the stud bolt that goes under the seat are was never there, at least not since I have had it. #7 on the chart. Also the passenger side bolts come out easy while the drivers side are rusted solid, weird.
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There are a few differences on a SD/SW than a regular car. Most kits are designed for the sedan.
 
Update. Got all the drivers side mount bolts out and loosened all the pass side. What is the best way to raise the body up a inch or so to put new body pads in? Jack with a 2x4 somewhere, something else? I so not have the means to pull the body off the frame.
 
you can do 1 side at a time use a 4x4 or something of substance along rocker fender and 1/4 panel that should give enough room get the height you want and support with jackstands front and rear of 4x4 just watch the jack doesnt kick out on you
 
frank long island said:
you can do 1 side at a time use a 4x4 or something of substance along rocker fender and 1/4 panel that should give enough room get the height you want and support with jackstands front and rear of 4x4 just watch the jack doesnt kick out on you
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Do you mean the rocker or the pinch weld?


Edit
So cut a notch to fit over the pinch weld and tried lifting it up. Ended up jacking the whole car up. So how do you separate the body from the frame? 65 years has literally stuck them together. I dont want to go beating on it if there is a better to do it.
 
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56sedandelivery said:
I so not have the means to pull the body off the frame.
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I never had anything to pull a body off a frame. So I MADE something.
I got two floorjacks at the front (with doghouse removed and all bolts out and jacked up the front of car enough off the frame to slide and 8 foot long 2x6 between bottom of car and frame. Then I reinforced the roof trusses above and placed a 4x4 vertical post to keep the roof from sagging as I intended to use lumber between two roof trusses to hand a cheap $14.00 Western Auto cable hoist. I drilled holes in the ends of the 2x6 and took a long chain and fastened it to the ends of the 2x6 and hoisted the front up far enough so that the tires would clear the rocker panels. Once the car was in mid air where I wanted it, I stacked up concrete blocks under the 2x6 and lowered the hoist back down a little so the 2x6 would rest on the concrete blocks.
Then I moved the whole lifting apparatus down to the back of the car and repeated with a longer board so that the tires would clear the concrete blocks.
Then I rolled the frame out from under the car. I used wood wedges to perfectly level the floor of the car so it would be suitable for cutting out the rusted floor panels and welding in new ones with the frame gone for sandblasting.
There's always a way to lift a car body off frame, even if you are the only one doing it without any help. Or, you could get a half dozen guys to lift it off and carry it away and set the body on oversized long sawhorses (on a fairly level surface).
 
56sedandelivery said:
So how do you separate the body from the frame? 65 years has literally stuck them together. I dont want to go beating on it if there is a better to do it.
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First make certain all bolts are out. The car frame is heavy and will usually pull right off, but if it sticks, get a carpenters wrecking bar and stick it in between the body structure and the rubber mounting pad. Give a little pry and go to the next point that sticks. The two points at the very front where the studs were might be binding if the studs are not out, so its a good idea to have them removed first.
Don't forget the wagon models have two bolts at the very back that DO NOT go thru the floor. Those go thru the bottom of the frame. Be careful to remove these before attempting to lift body off frame without incurring damage to the rear "L" brackets and substructure or bending the bolts.
 
56sedandelivery said:
So cut a notch to fit over the pinch weld and tried lifting it up. Ended up jacking the whole car up. So how do you separate the body from the frame? 65 years has literally stuck them together. I dont want to go beating on it if there is a better to do it.
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I suspect you don't have all the bolts removed. My '54 shop manual has a diagram that shows all the mountinng points. When I took the body off the frame it pulled off easily, and it was a rusty mess down there.
 
Update
All the bolts were out and the other side loosened up. It was just stuck. Ended up taking a sawsall to the #10 pads in the front. Once I cut them the whole body lifted up.



Now most have sequence bolt/star washer/round pad/square pad. Question is does the round pad go on the inside of the car and the square on on the outside or some other way around? Also does the star washer install curved side up next to bolt head or down away from the bolt head?
 
56sedandelivery said:
Now most have sequence bolt/star washer/round pad/square pad. Question is does the round pad go on the inside of the car and the square on on the outside or some other way around? Also does the star washer install curved side up next to bolt head or down away from the bolt head?
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Where did you buy your kit? It should have instructions. If not I will post diagrams.

Jwawhite is a member here. He replaced his mounts on his 1956 SW so he might be able to help you with that one position that is different from a sedan.

There is also a separate BODY ASSEMBLY WSM and I believe he bought a copy. I don't know if the info is in it or not. Maybe ask him.

How did the core support mount turn out?

Please post any info here on this thread.
 
KULTULZ said:
Where did you buy your kit? It should have instructions. If not I will post diagrams.

Jwawhite is a member here. He replaced his mounts on his 1956 SW so he might be able to help you with that one position that is different from a sedan.

There is also a separate BODY ASSEMBLY WSM and I believe he bought a copy. I don't know if the info is in it or not. Maybe ask him.

How did the core support mount turn out?

Please post any info here on this thread.
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Got the kit from one of the major suppliers, do not recall which one now. The only thing it had in it is the sheet of paper you posted earlier. i know which parts go with which. I was not sure if the round pad when on the inside of car or outside. I am assuming from what was on the old bolt/pads is that it goes on the inside with the square one on the outside thus capturing the body between them.



Radiator core support looks good. I posted a pic back in that thread. Just got to replacing the body pads as would be easier without the fenders on
 
I was not sure if the round pad when on the inside of car or outside. I am assuming from what was on the old bolt/pads is that it goes on the inside with the square one on the outside thus capturing the body between them
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How did they come apart?
 
KULTULZ said:
How did they come apart?
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Basically in pieces. The square pad were on the outside between the body and frame. The inside not much left except for the star washer.That is why I want to make sure before I put it back together. Also the pads were some sort of fiber something or other and not rubber. If I do not see otherwise I will install as in this pic.
 

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56sedandelivery said:
Basically in pieces. The square pad were on the outside between the body and frame. The inside not much left except for the star washer.

That is why I want to make sure before I put it back together. Also the pads were some sort of fiber something or other and not rubber. If I do not see otherwise I will install as in this pic.

485510
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That looks correct to me even though I have never had a 55/56 apart. I would think the flat insulators are of a material similar to tire casing to allow it to live for years.

If you look closely at the diagram, it gives assembly detail for each position.

Where did you come across that ILL?

Now you may also have to shim some mounts as to level the body correctly as to have the doors close correctly, etc. I think you have it figured out and THANX again for sharing the info.

BODY SHIMS are shown below -
 

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Square thick pad goes between car frame and floor support structure of car body. That is the only thing you will need under the car floor (unless you find that a spot needs a shim to push up against underside of floor).
Then, above the floor, push the round pad down into the formed hole in the floor panel. The big funny shaped washers go on top of the round pad with the star-shaped hole facing upwards. Then push the bolt thru and align with the speed-nut in the car frame Bracket.
If bolt doesn't align with nut when the round pad and washer are centered in the floor hole, you can go down below and tap the speed nut to make it align with the bolt. Those holes on the car frame bracket are oversized and slotted for maximum adjustability. Cool, huh?
 
Thanks guys. Looks good to go. The #4 drivers side had two shims so will just use the again. The illustration I made up. Thanks again.

One last thing, how tight do you tighten the bolt?
 
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