Body to Frame Mounts

56sedandelivery

56sedandelivery

Well-known member
The pest is back.


So getting ready to hang fenders as in previous thread. Figured I would try and replace the body to frame mount that is in the engine bay area. Got the top nut off no problem and now am stuck. It looks like the mounting bolt is just a bolt threaded the whole way with no nut attached. The top bolt came off easy but the bottom will not budge. I do not know if the bottom nut or whatever it is, is welded to the frame or not. I tried the jam nut on the top and bolt nuts just unscrewed. I put WD40 on it and will let it set overnight and see what happens. Any idea other then that to get it out? Thanks
 

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My '55 Ranch Wagon was original when I took the body off the frame, and all of the body mounts used a standard bolt and nut with flat washers and a lock washer on the nut end. No metal sleeve in the mount pads.

Sal
 
That is a STUD in #10 POSITION.
 

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I've removed two '55 Ford car body's off frame (one, a sedan and the other a Courier sedan delivery). The front body mounts are the same for both. They have a threaded stud sticking up from the frame which allows for preliminary body to frame alignment. Once the body is fully aligned on the frame, the front mounts are fastened down with large thick washers and castle nuts. I never tried to remove the stud from the nut fastened below the frame.
On both my cars, after I had the nuts tightened, I took a blob of "duxseal" and tore off a piece and shaped it over the nut so that water, road-salt and grime can't get into the threads on that stud. It lasts for years. Once the duxseal dries out real bad, you can just pull it off and stick on a new blob.
 
56sedandelivery said:
Okay, are these studs removable? The kit comes with studs so am assuming they can be removed.
Click to expand...

Yes. You are going to use two nuts tightened against one another, a stud removal socket or a hot wrench. I don't know if the vendor sells parts of the kit or you have to buy the complete kit.

If you don't want to buy the kit, the studs should be available at FASTENAL.

The stud has to come out? There is no hardware below it.
 
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Thanks. Never heard of Acetone and ATF will give that a try. I do not want to take the body off just raise it enough to get new mounting pad in there. Already tried the two nuts and that was a no go. I plan on doing one side at a time.
 
I got to thinking (which is scary enough on it's own) and most likely that stud is tapered and the retainer is tapered. When torque is applied and after all of these years, it should be frozen.
 

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Here is pic of replacement stud. Does not appear to be tapered, not saying that the original one wasn't.
 

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if that pic is your frame it should be easy with no body on it if not you are going to have to loosen or remove the mounts down the line to get the body high enough maybe even other side heat the bottom where stud goes through should move i dont think soaking it will loosen it enough but i have been wrong before and will be again
 
There was something not quite right when I replaced my body mount washers and rubbers.
If I torqued the Bolt and Nut close to spec, the rubber washer would bulge outside the steel washer. I also found the driver area eyelits on driver's side expanded from too many people messing/over torquing that area and pulling through the entire Assy. I installed Grade 8 washers and did not toque to spec but just below the listed number to prevent excessive wear/ ripping of rubber washer.
So far the doors and body seem stationary on the frame.
Thinking about selling Frank, car needs a person who knows what they are doing.
 
So after sitting 2 days drenched in WD40 still does not move. Using the ATF/Acetone treatment now. Went to pass side and it came out with no problem. Guess that is the norm since the one in the pic Kultulz posted is the same way. The stud looks the same as the new one I posted earlier. The challenge continues.
 
Jwawhite said:
There was something not quite right when I replaced my body mount washers and rubbers.

If I torqued the Bolt and Nut close to spec, the rubber washer would bulge outside the steel washer. I also found the driver area eyelits on driver's side expanded from too many people messing/over torquing that area and pulling through the entire Assy. I installed Grade 8 washers and did not toque to spec but just below the listed number to prevent excessive wear/ ripping of rubber washer.

So far the doors and body seem stationary on the frame.
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It may be the quality/vendor of the kit.

Thinking about selling Frank, car needs a person who knows what they are doing.
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Sorry to hear that.

When are you going to change your location?
 
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