body movement when rebolting to frame

stainless steve

Senior Member
:cool:I have a 1929 sport coupe and ready to paint ,reinstall cowl and tank , already painted and remount to frame .I know you can shim the body for fitment but how much movement can I expect..I ask this becuase I have refitted the doors and it looks like the post the door latches to could come down an eighth of an inch to fit dovetail dead on to the door
Thank you
 
You should be able to easily get that much flex by shimming the wood blocks. This is a job that goes much quicker with two people, but should be able to be accomplished in a relatively short period of time notwithstanding. I think that one of the worst cars to shim is the standard phaeton, so by comparison, this should be a much easier task. Good luck with the rest of your project.
 
BEFORE you dis-assemble to paint, get e/thing lined up NOW. Marco's site has a great article on how to get alignment starting at the radiator and working to the back. Shims are what is used.
Paul in CT
 
BEFORE you dis-assemble to paint, get e/thing lined up NOW. Marco's site has a great article on how to get alignment starting at the radiator and working to the back. Shims are what is used.
Paul in CT
:cool: That would be the way I would like ,but this car body had sat since the late 70s on a trailer at least its doors where on it and shut its good and square from measuring it and everything else was in piles or buckets.(your basket case for sure) and I knew you could get some movement out of the shimming prosess ,and reinstalling cowl and tank, but never doing an ..A.. before was curious about how much becuase of door fit ,they seemed a little tight and the drivers side at one time had an issue becuase someone had ground on the dovetail and dovetail screw heads a little bit , but both door openings measure the same and so does the hinges .Just looking for input on process this A has been quite fun to do not having done one before and this site is awesome becuase we can ask and have people who have done these can chime in:cool:
 
You should be able to easily get that much flex by shimming the wood blocks. This is a job that goes much quicker with two people, but should be able to be accomplished in a relatively short period of time notwithstanding. I think that one of the worst cars to shim is the standard phaeton, so by comparison, this should be a much easier task. Good luck with the rest of your project.
:cool: Thanks Dick thats what Im looking for, doesnt hurt to ask someone whos done it input is input and Im eating it all up Thanks again Steve
 
Marco's site has a great article on how to get alignment starting at the radiator and working to the back. Shims are what is used.
Paul in CT

Before you get your doors aligned, I strongly suggest you read Marco's instructions. You will save yourself a lot of trouble by starting at the radiator with hood installed and moving back from there.

Also pay attention to your clutch pedal position. If your body is just a little bit too far to the right you will end up with an annoying rattle from the pedal hitting the body. (VOE.)
 
:cool:Thank you Paul and Ray: I have read that artical a couple times now very inlightning and informative,I had the idea of starting at radiator, but did not know what to expect on movement
 
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