body frame bushing install

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
So I don't highjack another thread. I will have to replace the rubber bushings on my wagon. What is the best way to lift the body just enough to replace them?

Mike
 
Thanks K. That helps a lot, o e more question: do I have to remove the fenders or front clip to do this?

Mike
 
1930artdeco said:
Thanks K. That helps a lot, o e more question: do I have to remove the fenders or front clip to do this?

Mike
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I would say no but you will have to be careful when raising the body (slightly) to R&R the insulators. You would have to loosen/remove any attachments holding the front clip to the main body. Keep an eye on the core support mount.

Think it out and go slow and continuously watch for any front end binding.
 
Are gas tanks on Wagons, Rancheros, and Retractables mounted on the body or frames? Just asking for my own edification.
 
They are USUALLY attached/suspended to the frame with straps. That is why the recommendation was done to loosen your fuel filler pipe from the body before jacking.

The RANCHERO tank is mounted the same as a SW. It is actually a cut down SW.
 
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56sedandelivery said:
Hummm. My 56 SD gas tank is held on by brackets. There is no strap.
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OK... You win. Are the brackets attached to the frame or body?

all-original-complete-100-road-worthy-3-row-seating-station-wagon-13.jpg
 
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:confused:​

Does it (fuel tank) attach to the body at any point other than the filler pipe?

I would like to know as there is no ENGINEERING ILL available.
 
enclosed pics. Attaches to the frame with two mounts forward and one mount aft. First two are of tank and its attachment point aft. Second two are the tank and its attachment point forward.
 

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Possibly may need to remove both front and rear bumpers. If the front is lifted, the splash pan will hit the backside of the bumper. The rear bumper may also have a splashguard under it which would interfere with the rear body panel.
I believe wagon gas tanks in '57 were mounted off the frame, but the gas filler neck has one lag screw that needs to be removed behind the gas filler door that holds the gas neck to a bracket welded to the inner rear quarter.
Disconnect parking brake cable at the junction near the rear of the transmission and remove the clip that holds the cable to the car frame.
Disconnect the ground cable from the back of the front frame crossmember.
Make sure that wiring from firewall to engine will not bind or stretch. If in doubt, disconnect wiring/cabling from clips to allow for extra slop.
Remove front doghouse center support bolt at crossmember.
You may be able to get away with removing the metal plates from the firewall that surround the steering column, so that the steering column can remain bolted to the frame, but you'd only be able to lift the body about 1-1/2 inches off the frame. Remove the dash cover just above where the steering column meets with the dash and remove the Fordomatic gear select needle. Remove the two long screws that hold the steering column bracket under the dash.
You'll need to disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder down to the junction block on the frame. Choose the top fitting so you won't need to bleed so much air after the body is back on the frame when it is hooked up again.
Look for enough slack in the speedometer cable. If in doubt, disconnect cable at one end.
I would take the battery completely out prior to lifting the body off frame.
 
If you have four bottle jacks positioned; one near rear, one under front of transmission tunnel and one as close to inner rocker halfway between front and rear bottle jacks, each with an appropriate sized 2x4 on top and a concrete block as a base for each bottle jack, you could go around each one gradually lifting the body off the frame, or get three buddies to help, each one raising their jack simultaneously. The doghouse would float but it is not enough weight to cause the body to tip.
 
Dave, Thanks for the list. That is what I was looking for. I have one question though:

What is: Remove front doghouse center support bolt at crossmember. I may just know it by a different name.

I will probably lift one side just about an inch or so, just so I can R2 the rubber body pads and then set her back down again.

Mike
 
1930artdeco said:
What is: Remove front doghouse center support bolt at crossmember. I may just know it by a different name.
Look underneath the front bumper at the center and view the middle of the front crossmember. You will see a tab welded at the center of the crossmember with a bolt through it that holds up the bracket that braces the center of the splash pan. That bolt needs to be removed. If I didn't mention it before, you need to either unbolt the radiator and remove it, or disconnect the hoses from the engine and lift it with the doghouse, but if I were doing it, I would remove the radiator entirely to unburden the extra weight.
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Thanks, got it now. Since I am just tipping the body to one side I may leave it. It isn't hooked up anyways.

Mike
 
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