Is there a suggested torque value to use for the body bolts ? Most of the threads suggest "snug". Would like to translate that into ft.#'s if possible so as not to compress the shims too much.
There are rubber pads and or wood blocks in the body mount connections. These flexible materials will compress, take a set over time and loosen the connections. So do what the mechanics did on the Ford assembly lines, just tighten nuts enough to flatten the lock-washers.
There are no Ford published values. Originally Ford Torqued fasteners by designing their assembly and repairs tools to provide the proper torque values. You could use one of their tools and then check it with a modern torque wrench to come close to what Ford used for torque values.
When restoring my 30 Cabriolet, I found that different torques changed the way my doors fit. As mentioned, the flexible materials and rubber pads were the culprit. This may be unique to the Cabriolet, but slightly different tensions on the body bolts helped with my alignment. Food for thought.
Is there a suggested torque value to use for the body bolts ? Most of the threads suggest "snug". Would like to translate that into ft.#'s if possible so as not to compress the shims too much.
Don't see how a 'set torque' could be given or had where soft materials are used (rubber/wood/canvas web) .
As said, tightening/loosening of various anchor points...affects the body alignment.
I think that all would agree in that these soft materials ...'take a set' over time when under compression/torque. My follow up question is, with this knowledge, how often do Model A owners readjust the tightening/torque of these body mounts ? The set must give looseness eventually and regularly ?