blown fuse problem

If the generator only puts out 10 to 15 amps then the wire will be sized appropriately. If a person is running an alternator the it can put out 35 or more amps but the wire would still remain the same size unless someone rewires it. Most of the safety fuse kits come with a 20-amp fuse.
 
In aviation, soldering is secondary to crimp type connections. This is based on what happens to copper wire when heated during the soldering process. If the wire moves at all, it will fatigue quickly and break at the soldered connection. Crimp type terminals and connectors are much better than any used in the automotive world and they last as long as the wire does.

On older antique cars, they were soldered more often than not so to be original, solder them but don't expect them to last forever.
 
You need to use the correct crimp tool for the terminal used to provide a quality crimp. A lot of the generic hobbyist crimp tools do a poor job of crimping.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
You need to use the correct crimp tool for the terminal used to provide a quality crimp. A lot of the generic hobbyist crimp tools do a poor job of crimping.
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True that; channel locks or vise gripes will cause the wires to break at the crimp as they will not stop "crimping" until you stop pressing the jaws together which is usually too hard.

A crimping tool is set for the correct size wire and terminal and will only crimp to a specific depth the maintain wire integrity.



Solder always seems to work for me and "Bell and Howell" or "Western Union" splice joints are my go to but that is only because that's the the way I was taught...
 
You must be thinking of this -

Crimp and solder
You old rodder
The old crate
Keeps getting odder
~Burma Shave~
 
Yep.
I like to crimp, solder and shrink tube a connector/terminal.
Western union, solder and shrink tube a splice.
I kinda like shrink tube and have not any issues with anything breaking.
 
I run a 30 Amp circuit breaker on both my cars. Roadster is 6V + grd, the coupe is 12 V - grd. Both have alternators and for the last several months no problems with either. On the 6V, I do pull the circuit breaker at the end of the day every time I drive it. The 12 Volt I pull if it will be over a month before I fire it up again. So far so good. Last year both did odd things, that I never did really understand. Now neither car is a problem so I'll leave the tinkering until something quits.
 
Berts sells a 30 amp circuit breaker that mounts on top of the starter.. I had a similar issue as you are experiencing and used the breaker while I was chasing the short.. lot easier than continuing to fry fuses. once you have solved the issue you can go back to the stock fuse setup..
 
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