Blow by/smoking issue

G

G_Don

Member
I went out for a drive yesterday, i have probably only put 50 miles on a Model B block w/ an A head, since I got the car. Previous owner said it was rebuilt (bored 0.080" over) and it looked clean when I pulled the head and gasket a few months before trying to run it. (And I've retorqued the head twice before this happened). I was driving around for an hour or so on back roads and everything was fine. I decided to go home on the county highway doing about 45.

I had the timing lever a third of the way down (GAV at 1/2 to 1/4 open and 60deg weather). After about three miles, the engine started running rough, i turned off onto a back road and it stalled.

The radiator was a little over two quarts low and when I opened the hood, I saw white smoke wafting out of the carb (zenith). I put some more water in the radiator as it was leaking (tightened the hoses) and started it up. After starting it up there was blow by. I drove it home on the back roads for another mile and a half home. At the end there was a lot of white smoke coming up to the cabin.

Spark plugs look fine, and starting up and idling it sounds fine as well. The blow by doesn't happen right when I start it, but after a minute or two at idle, it starts and when I drive.

I've changed the oil once, I put 5 quarts of Rotella and it is above the F mark. But I havent had this blow by problem before. I have since drained the oil and it was slightly dirty but nothing scary looking.

Any insight as to what it could be?

Thanks in advance,
Gordy
 
First, you don’t need five quarts of oil. Only four and one half unless you have dropped the oil pan and drained splash pan. You have two much oil in oil pan.

Second, check timing. When on the open road, driving 35 to 45 MPH, we keep our spark advance at nine or ten o’clock. Except on hills.

Do you think your engine was running hot?
 
Does the smoke smell "sweet" ? Antifreeze has a sweet smell and taste to it. Also how's the paint look on the motor, do you see any discolouration anywhere (might indicate a hot spot in the block). What do the ends of the plugs look like, I've included a picture for reference if possible issues

af454047c1bae55936174ee13b1b2c85.jpg
 
Model B block with Model A head. Did you plug the 2 steam holes in the deck of the block? Coolant may leak in 2nd and 3th cylinder through those.
 
IMO white smoke equals water. Your head gasket may be blown, pull the plugs and look at them. Pull the fan belt and run the engine, look in the radiator for bubbles.
Is the timing set correctly?? I usually go farther then 1/3 way down.
Paul in CT
 
yup white smoke is water, blue is oil (and it smells like burnt oil), black is gas not burning correctly (too rich).
 
Sounds like a water problem, Leaking gasket and or not plugging the Model B block holes that don't correspond with an outlet in the head.
 
The plugs looked pretty normal. The #1 cylinder's spark plug had a little more carbon on it than the other three but not an excessive amount. The smoke smelled kind of like tar or dirty oil (I can't really describe it too well).

I plugged the two steam holes when I pulled the head the first time.

I looked in the radiator to see if there were bubbles and there weren't. I'm thinking once I put in more rotella (4 or 4.5 quarts this time) and run it to see how it does (although I doubt there will be a difference because it ran fine for miles with 5 qts).

If that doesn't work, I'll try resetting the timing.

This is a picture of the radiator... This was taken after running it in the driveway , but these bubbles subsided after a minute or two (so I dont know if thatd still be a blown head gasket?)

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When I look into the oil filler tube there is a yellowish foam by the baffle? Is this indicative of a bad baffle in my oil filler tube?

Thanks for all the help guys!
Gordy
 
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Pulled the head and the #7 stud between cylinder #1 and #2 was slightly wet, as well as the number 1 cylinder had (water?) in it. Maybe this explains the blow by from the oil tube?

I noticed this on the adjacent sides of the #1 and #2 cylinders. It's a black and white residue.

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Is this just water? Will turning over the engine harm the cylinder walls because of this residue? Or is it ok to leave as is, and it will burn off after replacing the gasket and running it?

Thanks for all your guys help,
Gordy
 
At this point, leave the head off and get someone to visual check for cracks and then pressure test the head for cracks. It is possible to pressure test the block with the head on and off with the right equipment. Magnaflux is another tool available to find cracks and to hopefully verify that there are no cracks. Also, use permatex #2 on studs going into the block with a thin smear of antisieze on the sides of the studs. Many local machinists will make a house call for this help.
 
Just a point, what's the compression like? You said she was running fine, do you think possibly you have a bad ring on a piston? Check the compression and do a leak down test and see if any cylinders are out of spec if you have the time. Also curious, what type of head gasket are you running, the old style or the new modern one? I'm not familiar if there's a specific head gasket for running a B head on an A.
 
Fast31 said:
Model B block with Model A head. Did you plug the 2 steam holes in the deck of the block? Coolant may leak in 2nd and 3th cylinder through those.
Click to expand...

You didn't confirm if you have done this !!!! All the holes in the B block and the A head do not line up also you need to use a B gasket
 
I did plug the two steam holes, I am using a Best B gasket.

The tops of the pistons were a lot cleaner before I ran it... But now they have black/brown carbon on them.

I'm wondering if my head was warped? I don't have an indicators or machinist tools at my house to check this. It definitely seems as though the gasket failed at that stud #7.

Anyone know if I should clean that whitish/and black residue on the side of the cylinder walls? Or what would be safe to clean it?

Thanks for all the responses guys,
Gordy
 
G_Don said:
Anyone know if I should clean that whitish/and black residue on the side of the cylinder walls? Or what would be safe to clean it?

Thanks for all the responses guys,
Gordy
Click to expand...


I'd clean it with varsol on a rag or something similar then wipe a bit of fresh oil in the cylinders. Quick question, does the stud you mention (#7) sit any different than the rest (sit higher out of the block or deeper in it?) , just want to remove any chance the nut is bottoming out on the threads before the head gets compressed from the application of torque from the nut.
 
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