block off plate

M

mustang8

Senior Member
If i change my 48 f1 from a mechanical fuel pump to an electric fuel pump, is there a block off plate for the top of the motor where the fuel pump stand bolts too? If so is it a flat plate with a oil return hole in the middle? I found one on ebay but wasnt sure why the oil return would be needed. Thanks. Luke
 
Would i be safe to assume that if i were to install a remote oil filter (new screw on style) that i could return the oil to the engine thru this plate?
 
Hi Luke, since the original fuel pump mechanism on your engine was lubricated by the "oil fog" that takes place during the operation of a warm flathead engine, there naturally was not oil being sent up the fuel pump pushrod from the cam (the pushrod is solid). Therefore, the block-off plates are simply flat without any ports or return holes. Some guys, however, have used this area to redirect filtered oil from their external oil filter canisters back into the engine. Quite possibly this is what the previous owner had been doing with the plate that you eyed on eBay.

You most likely already know this, but the original fuel pump is of a flow-through design. If you want to add an inline fuel pump for carburetor bowl priming, etc., you can simply install the inline pump ahead of the stock unit, and the fuel will simply pump straight through to the carb. Unless of course, you are adding multiple carbs, and just want to get the original pump out of the way.

Have a good one,
Glenn
La Plata, MD
 
Since the '48 pickup is the first year of the 8BA engine it may or may not have a lubricating hole in the pushrod bushing. If it does that could mean a loss of oil pressure.
 
If i pull the pump off, and then pull the pump stand off, will the fuel pump pushrod just pull out? If so then this block off plate will work just fine. These are brand new block off plates not rigged ones.
 
So would a 2-3.5 psi electric fuel pump be addequate? Or would i need a 4-7psi pump. Also do i HAVE to run an inline preassure regulator?
 
Here is info on a good pump that gasohol will not destroy. You do not want to run the gas through the stock pump. If the diaphram ruptures the electric pump will fill the crankcase full of gasoline and destroy the engine. Vic Piano has info on how to modify the original pump so gas will run through it and everything will look stock and not destroy the engine. Here is the site for the electric pump. http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/
 
I do not care about looking stock. I just want an electric pump that will work and not over pump to the carb.
 
Mustang8: Use a pressure regulator with a fuel pressure gauge if you want to get an accurate reading. On my 8BA I am using this regulator
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804/overview/ with this guage
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-800115
I drained the fluid out of the gauge to get a steady accurate reading.
I am using this pump; http://www.amazon.com/Purolator-Uni...oduct-reviews/B0002KL408?tag=atomicindus08-20
You adjust the pressure regulator with the engine running at idle.
 
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Wow that pump shows a 4-6 psi range, the pump i was looking at is a mr gasket #42S that is rated for 2 - 3.5 psi, because supposedly these carbs only want 2 psi max.
 
Like Marv says, you don't want to run and electric pump as a secondary to the mechanical pump. Marv did one OEM pump modification for me (for my '39 CS) and I did one for my '39 LZ. It is an easy conversion that looks completely stock under the hood. I also leave the mechanical push rod in place and carry a (known to be good) mechanical pump in the trunk, just incase the electric pump has a problem. I set the fuel pressure for the electric pump at 2.5 pounds. I've been running this set up for a while now, with no problems. I've also got an electric fuel pump (with a block off plate on the pump housing) on my '51 F-1. As an added bonus, an electric fuel pump will (in most cases) vanquish Vapor Lock. PM me if you want to know how Marv and I made the 'pass through' pumps. Vic
 
mustang8 said:
Wow that pump shows a 4-6 psi range, the pump i was looking at is a mr gasket #42S that is rated for 2 - 3.5 psi, because supposedly these carbs only want 2 psi max.
Click to expand...

True, but you can adjust the regulator to the fuel pressure you want. Be sure and buy the low pressure regulator.
 
Yep im going to just take the mechanical right off as well as the stand and also pull the rod out. I ordered a block off plate at the stand location, that has an oil return hole threaded into it. So now i have a place for my oil to return from my remote oil filter adaptor that i wanted to put on.
 
Hear we go. the 48 pickup came with the first 8BA engine so we will assume yours has the 8BA. That first 8BA did not have a bushing in the fuel pump push rod hole. They did have 1/8 pipe plug behind the flywheel so they could drill a small hole abought 1/16 straight into the main oil pipe to lube the push rod. SO, I would remove the push rod and plug the push rod hole so it wouldn't spray a mist of oil up into the valve spring area. Now all you need is a flat plate to cover the fuel pump stand hole. As far a this remote oil filter you want to put on is just a parcel flow and not a full flow system, If so you can use that plate with a hole in it for the return from the filter. Walt
 
Walt, I'm honestly not picking a fight, just a reservation.
I gota ask, you said you'd plug the push rod hole to prevent an oil mist into the valve spring area. This block off plate with the oil fitting, with the partial or parallel flow filter system returning its oil through that block off plate, surely your gonna be puttin more than an "oil mist" into the same valve spring area.
Can you see my reservation here?
Didn't the 48 F1 have a factory fitted filter, kinda thought they did.
Martin
 
Yea, I see what you mean Scooter, but the spray coming out of that push rod hole I think would be more of a mist and the intake guides might suck more oil, I would think the oil coming out of that filter return would be more straight stream lay in the bottom and go down the return hole back into the base. But it's 6 to 1 or half dozen the other. Walt
 
Walt Dupont--Me. said:
Hear we go. the 48 pickup came with the first 8BA engine so we will assume yours has the 8BA. That first 8BA did not have a bushing in the fuel pump push rod hole. They did have 1/8 pipe plug behind the flywheel so they could drill a small hole abought 1/16 straight into the main oil pipe to lube the push rod. SO, I would remove the push rod and plug the push rod hole so it wouldn't spray a mist of oil up into the valve spring area. Now all you need is a flat plate to cover the fuel pump stand hole. As far a this remote oil filter you want to put on is just a parcel flow and not a full flow system, If so you can use that plate with a hole in it for the return from the filter. Walt
Click to expand...

Walt I have a question, if I understood what you are saying, the first 8ba did not have a fuel pump rod bushing? If not, how did the oil get past the rod and into the main galley tube? Is there some other modification to these blocks?
 

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Answered my own question! I was thinking that the pump rod was more in the main oil galley line, not.
 

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It has been recomened to use fuel injection rubber hose at any connection on your electric pump. Corn gas will eat up the old type hose. f.w.i.w.
 
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