black wall tires

I have been running Universal tires with good results for many many years. Firestone tires will not fit into Model "A" fender wells.

:eek:Such an incorrect statement - my new black wall Firestone fit just fine in a 28 well. I have never had a problem with any other previously owned Model A either,
 
I have been running Universal tires with good results for many many years. Firestone tires will not fit into Model "A" fender wells.


I’ve heard lots of people complain about Firestones not fitting in their fender wells. Some say they have to let out some air to squeeze them in. I suppose it depends on the fender wells installed on the individual car.


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Indeed, the fender wells may not even be original, but welded in later.And then who knows what their dimensions are? My Firestones are such a tight fit it’s a struggle even with no air pressure in them. The wells are so tight I couldn’t tilt the tires enough to clear the bracket when removing them. And the canvas covers make it even worse. I ended up removing the triangular plate and hammering out the lugs, which are carriage bolts. Now I can remove the lugs with the tire in place and remove the spares. When I replaced the tires I didn’t want to buy six, so the spares (and their tubes!) are probably 35 years old or more. I don’t expect to ever drive on them.
 
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JEGS 106. each including shipping and tax. OK by me. quality? dont know...........


wont drive them enough to ever find out.

Thats what I bought and no complaints

No point in shelling out much more than that just because they've got the logo of a better tire brand on them. Unless you're racing or daily driving it
 
Subtotal:$424.00
PROMO Code discount:-$20.00
Total Product Price:$404.00
FedEx Oversize Charge:$39.96
FREE Standard Shipping:$0.00
Total:$443.96

this is the price for 21 inch tires that just came up at JEGS. free shipping.

If you get the new wells fargo active cash credit card, they hand you 200. for spending 500.

NO BRAINER
 
stay away from Firestones.
Goodyear are the best.
Universal OK if you don't have the budget for Goodyear.

my experience/opinions based on 30 years and 60,000+ miles.

no experience with radials.....
 
I bought Excelsior tires from Speedway, sold by Coker too. Picked them up at the Arlington Texas store. No shipping. $106 each.
 
If you bought 19s Old, Jegs ships them to your door for that price. The 21s are slightly higher, as noted......
 
I've been running on Goodyear Diamond Treads for 15 years now, no problems, nice ride, no dry cracks and plenty of tread still left after thousands of miles. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
 
Coker's radials... no comparison in the ride and handling...no more bias tires for me...:)




Are the original rims compatible with radials? What does Coker say about using them on original rims? I had heard that the rims were stiffened over the rims used on the old nylon/rayon bias ply tires of the 1960s when radials first come out on new cars......


I haven't had any issues nor have I heard of anyone having issues with radials mounted on original rims.


TOB
 
Anybody?

The radials ride nicer because the sidewalls flex more, absorbing road shocks. When replacing bias ply for radial tires on cars originally so equipped (1960s), rims were recommended to be replaced with those rated for use with radial tires. Cases had been reported where this additional flexing of the radials caused fatigue cracks on the bias ply rims in the region of the return on the bead mounting surface.

here is an excerpt from a SEMA paper on the topic.

Why is there a possible rim concern between Radial and Bias Tires?

The fitting of radial tires, to wheels and rims originally designed for bias tires, is an application that may result in
rim durability issues. Even same-sized bias and radial tires stress a rim differently, despite their nearly identical
dimensions. Stresses that exceed any rim’s design limits can result in rim failure with possible tire & vehicle
consequences. The following discussion examines the basic causes of “uniquely radial” rim stresses and it
identifies some likely results of that stress.
When radial tires began to be widely accepted, engineers and customers noted occasional rim cracking failures
that led to higher strength standards for light truck and large agricultural tire applications. Rim cracking was not
prevalent in all wheels of that era (1970s), but wheels and rims of earlier years (with different design standards
and many, many usage cycles) were not, and indeed could not, be fully tested for use with every possible radial.
Therefore, it is likely that “all” old rims, and even some new rims to old designs, may not perform satisfactorily
with these newer technology tires….even if compatible sizing makes it very easy to install the radials.


Here is the link to this paper;
https://sites.sema.org/ext-assets/councils/pdf/WTC-2011-05-Bias-vs-Radial-Tire-Wheel-Fitment.pdf

So I ask, has anyone posed this question to Coker, or other manufacturers marketing these tires for Model A's
 
So what about the rims suitability? Great that the new technology makes an improvement in ride and stability, are the rims compatible as I have asked?
 
A good number of folks are running the American Classic Radials including me. Some for several years on their Model A's with the original wheels. I have not heard of any wheel failures associated with AM Classic Radials in either the 21" or 19" size.

There has been a report of a reproduction wheel failure. However, this did not involve an AM Classic Radial.
 
A good number of folks are running the American Classic Radials including me. Some for several years on their Model A's with the original wheels. I have not heard of any wheel failures associated with AM Classic Radials in either the 21" or 19" size.

There has been a report of a reproduction wheel failure. However, this did not involve an AM Classic Radial.

I wonder if those (reproductions) are the rim type being discussed in the the SEMA paper I have attached? I would expect that the tire manufacturers would have looked into this matter if for no other reason than their own protection. Counting on the other guy to maintain ones own safety however I would not rely on. Whomever's tires I end up replacing mine with I will be making this inquirery.

Where is the source of the report for reproduction rim failures you are reporting?
 
I wonder if those (reproductions) are the rim type being discussed in the the SEMA paper I have attached? I would expect that the tire manufacturers would have looked into this matter if for no other reason than their own protection. Counting on the other guy to maintain ones own safety however I would not rely on. Whomever's tires I end up replacing mine with I will be making this inquirery.

Where is the source of the report for reproduction rim failures you are reporting?


Source was from this forum. My understanding at the time was it only involved a total of one wheel and the incident occured in Australia. Couldn't find it in the search function.
 
Source was from this forum. My understanding at the time was it only involved a total of one wheel and the incident occured in Australia. Couldn't find it in the search function.

I think I am the source of that information when I posted a while ago on a thread here about wheels. I was relating how one of our club members drove about 2,100 miles to a National Rally and by the time he got there, his new, reproduction wheels were dangerously cracked. He intended to drive back home on them but many of us persuaded him to send the car back on the train. It was clear to us that he would be left on the side of the road with not enough wheels somewhere out in the never never. The incident involved more than one wheel or someone would have given him a spare for the trip. From memory, I think the vendor replaced the dud wheels and the replacements have been OK.
If I remember, I'll ask him about that when I see him next.

BTW, on that trip, my wife and I towed a camper trailer all the way around the country (Australia is the same size as your lower 48. WE covered about 15,000 miles) and by the time I got back, I had 3 previously good original wheels starting to fall to pieces. The long spokes were pulling off the rims.
I run 1935 wheel when I tow now.
 
I think I am the source of that information when I posted a while ago on a thread here about wheels. I was relating how one of our club members drove about 2,100 miles to a National Rally and by the time he got there, his new, reproduction wheels were dangerously cracked. He intended to drive back home on them but many of us persuaded him to send the car back on the train. It was clear to us that he would be left on the side of the road with not enough wheels somewhere out in the never never. The incident involved more than one wheel or someone would have given him a spare for the trip. From memory, I think the vendor replaced the dud wheels and the replacements have been OK.
If I remember, I'll ask him about that when I see him next.

BTW, on that trip, my wife and I towed a camper trailer all the way around the country (Australia is the same size as your lower 48. WE covered about 15,000 miles) and by the time I got back, I had 3 previously good original wheels starting to fall to pieces. The long spokes were pulling off the rims.
I run 1935 wheel when I tow now.

I assume you are referring to the rims here?
 
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