Binding? Passenger Window Forearm Muscles.

Jwawhite

Jwawhite

Well-known member
Today's adventure, rekey passenger door and determine why window crank is difficult.
Topically, I see lube paste on the large crank gear and a bit on the inside door handle lever. I can't determine if there is lube on the rollers or the condition of same.
I think it might be a binding issue.
The Shop Manual is not quite clear but I think the point is to spread the vertical channels a bit.

Your experience with this?
 
Few years back had a similar problem with one of my cars, your repair should include a visual inspection too. In my case a spot weld had let go causing the window to get forced to one side and bind up.
 
also ck the guide channel [glass run channel] felts the sometime bunch up / tear on the corners of the glass this along with the window going down off center [rollers or weld as mentioned] will cause binding
 
Today just a bit of work, rekeying came out ok, could only use 3 slots, 3 sets of pins available that would work with the key I have. The guide channels are ok, no bunching up, perplexed about checking rollers that are hidden, perhaps a mirror? Don't want to pull everything out right now but will have to, some day. But I'm still leaning towards the glass being squeezed. Anyone adj one of these?
 
It seems we have to guess on what the car is???

The best way to find out is to go inside the door and look at it as it is going up.
 
Excuse me, the car is a 2 Door Parklane Wagon.
 

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The window glass might be too close to the front or too close to the back glass channel runner. To adjust, loosen the four little bolts that hold the window crank mechanism onto the door shell. Now jerk it forward and backward and try to get the mechanism right in the middle then tighten up the bolts. Having it in the middle of the glass run channels will reduce friction greatly.
Check the operation of the window channel rollers. If one of them is binding, it may cause the window to tilt rubbing up against the channels on both sides. Cleaning the rollers real good and plastering them with a healthy dose of lubriplate might help. Scrape off the old dried up lubriplate in the slots under the window channel and smear new lubriplate on them.
 
I've been looking over the Shop Manual this evening after dinner. Under Chpt 5 one Heading is Binding. I don't want to take everything out, the glass may be stuck in its channel and I don't want to mess with that now. But the way that I've seen some things done and not done leads me to the conclusion it may all be crammed up with old crud......I'll try the simple adjs first, you're correct in the two horizontal channels may bind the window. Learned tonight there is an adj on the wing window- ease of opening and closing, neat.
 
Most likely one of the rollers is broken and sticking in the track. Even the wrong grease will solidify with age and make the window hard to operate. Take the inside door panel off and work the window up and down, look for loose parts in the bottom of the door.
 
bobss396 said:
Even the wrong grease will solidify with age and make the window hard to operate.
Click to expand...

Well, I look at it like this; the factory used "lubriplate" as a lubricant for all the moving window parts and mechanisms. I don't think bearing grease would be appropriate here since there is no 'housings" of any sort to hold the grease in place. So the last time I had my doors apart to clean and re-lube the window parts was in 1994. Before that, it was done in 1973. Each time, more than 20years apart. My driver door window has been rolled up and down a gazillion times since 1994 and it is smooth as silk.

So if FOMOCO based the decision to use lubriplate for the rollers, window channel guide and mechanisms upon the idea that it only needs to last ten years, (then we sell 'em a new Ford in '65), I wouldn't dispute it since I've experienced pretty good luck with using lubriplate as a lubricant for this.
 
This may not be your problem; but here goes:

Both front windows on my '65 Galaxie were difficult to wind up and down. (the back seat windows were ok.)

I slowly & carefully removed the interior door panels, rubbed some wheel bearing grease on the teeth and in the window regulator channels, liberally sprayed WD-40 in the felt window guides and inside the window gear system (IDK the proper name?) that the chrome window crank down lever attaches to.

I can now roll the front windows up and down with "two fingers".
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone! Not only is the window difficult but I can actually feel the gear teeth mesh when operating widow crank. I note there are adj bolts on this also, is there a gap for the teeth? Like an oil pump, etc? Will review shop manual on this. I have been unable to work on the vehicle now for days and my next opportunity may be Sunday afternoon. I'll look it all over and let you guys know. I sure do enjoy doing this and that on the car!
 
I use silicon lube spray on the runs of all my cars, especially the power window ones. On my 40 panel, and my 59 pickup, I just take everything out of the door, inspect it all. Then lube it good, put it back in with new rollers, make sure the runs are well adjust and they will be buttery smooth. If you buy new channels, get the best ones, the slide a lot better than the cheapies.
 
Back at it again for a bit today, rain has stopped till Sunday. I've moved my Division Bar as far forward as possible and yet the window is still binding in the felt. The felt appears new with no bunching. There is one more possibility but I have to look at it first to determine if viable. The Rear Glass Run Assy may be adjusted inward with washers ---to take up slack if necessary. I'll take a gander tomorrow, perhaps I can adj it towards the Dove Tail by removing washers, if any. The very last option: The Professional that took it apart has messed it up.......and I may have to disassemble it all to find the problem area.
 
FYI, on my 55 bird I've always had trouble with the pass. side window mech. I tried everything over a long period of time withoughtmuch sucess. And believe me I have had this door and post all apart several times and understand how it works.
Currently I have removed all the felt material in the rear channel and replace it with hard surface teflon strips. I cut them with an xacto knife to fit all 3 side of the channel. I bought a roll of the stuff at WOODCRAFT or you could order it online for under 10 bucks.
This eliminated a tremendous amount of drag on the window and is the best solution I have tried so far. All other systems and adjustments still have to be all go as well. And still not perfectly easy.
 
I don't have a very technical answer but , I had old hard felt in my tracks so I replaced runners and made sure the bottom glass mechanism was lined back up so years of trying to roll up the window while it was in a bind we corrected . Didn't take much tweaking it was up and down smooth again .
 
Here's a couple tings I don't think anybody mentioned;
1) When I had my window crank regulators out, I turned them upside down to expose the slot where the gears touch. I dumped a little 90 wt gear oil down inside ther and packed that cavity solid with lubriplate to help keep the oil from running out when you turn it rightside up again.
2) If the window glass is tilted in the bottom window channel, the glass will tear into the runner felt on one side and make it seem like it is binding. This can occur when that goop that holds the glass in gets old and dried out. At this point, you have to pull the glass out of the channel and scrape out that old goop, then reset the glass back in with new stuff. I don't know what you are supposed to use here (urethane caulk maybe?), but I reset mine in with a rubber strip shoved down into the channel so that the rubber wraps around to hold both sides of the glass. I did that to my driver door window back in '92 and it is still perfect.
 
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