Best way to mount engine to stand

TBone69

Senior Member
Hi Folks,

Getting ready to tear into and inspect a motor I just picked up. What is the best way to mount it to an engine stand, from the side or the back?

Thanks
 
I make my living building engines. I built this set-up to bolt an A/B from the back.
Ford / KR Wilson from the side,...so you need to choose what you like. BUT don't
bolt / use the flywheel housing, it's just not strong enough..
 

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I've always worried about breaking casting mounted on an engine stand. Years ago when I was working on construction equipment if the engine stands were *******, we'd get wood blocks and roll the engine over on them with a cherry picker or overhead hoist.
 
I built an accessory plate similar to the KRW mount - you know it attaches to the water inlet side of the engine using the water inlet bolts AND a flange to catch the bottom oil pan bolts on the "upper" side - similar to the KRW device.

engine%20stand_lg.jpg


Instead of the cast iron pedestal that KRW sold, mine replaces the plate which comes with the $50 roll around engine stand - the plate part for that is based on a standard 2" pipe.

This allows me unimpeded access to the working parts of the engine and I can spin whichever side I want up.

One caveat on this - provide a long enough handle so you don't lose control of the engine while turning - the load tends to be off center to the centerline of the 2" pipe and a short handle increases the chance of losing it and having the engine "flop."

A manufacturer makes these. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/engine-stand-adapter

Joe K
 
I have one of those places a few miles from my house. So you think the plate that Snyder's sells will be adequate without the flywheel and flywheel housing?

I can modify the adapter that comes with the stand, have torch and welder.
 
So you think the plate that Snyder's sells will be adequate without the flywheel and flywheel housing?

Actually, I think you will find it better minus those two - at least for the jobs that you use such a stand for.

Think delving into the valve chamber, work in the lower end.

I usually put the flywheel housing on - and then remove to another roll-around stand that catches the three main mounting points of the engine (front valve chamber, two sides of the flywheel housing) - and then put on all the other do-dads including transmission before making the transfer to the chassis.

My roll-around made of wood - but here's a nice one in metal.

stand.jpg


Joe K
 
I am a side mounter that way can fit fly wheel & housing clutch etc use water intake bolts & two sump ones , can even fit sump minus two bolts , works for me,
 
I made mine for sidemount very easy and cheap the 3/8 flat stock was like $8 already had the pipe all you need is a welder and drill just remember to put it on passenger side so you can attach dipstick tube like i did not
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Tapatalk
 
I used a side mount.

I bolted the angle iron to the flywheel so I could lift it into place...
 

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I f you have the back of the engine hanging off the end of a pickup with the engine laying on its side, just bolt your engine stand up to it. You will have the stand leaning over. Just stand the stand upright and drive the truck away
 
Thanks Guys, pics are worth a thousand words. Always wondered hoe the oil pan would come off it you mounted from the side but now I see it bolts to the top of the pan rail.

I do have the flywheel and housing off so I see mounting from the back is possible. I was worried about something snapping off.

I have a busy weekend coming up so not sure if I'll get to mounting up the motor, its currently on a wooden cradle. I have a good stock of flat, angle and round stock and may make up my own side mount hopefully I can get started on that
 
I mounted a worm drive gearbox on my engine stand, makes it much easier to turn and it automatically locks in whatever position that it's turned to, can't lose control of it as Joe K mentioned in post #4.
Good for my bad back.
 

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That worm drive is a good idea.
My friend did the same thing years ago by using an old GM steering box, which turned a full 360*.
 
Too bad a lot of those gear reduction boxes are sooooo big. Years ago dad and I built an engine stand from whatever we could find out in the junk pile on the farm. We used sprockets and a roller chain. worked great and was simple.
 
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I mount my engines with the water inlet to the stand, and 2 bolts thru the pan rail from the top. This gives total access for assembly, and you can install the pan and flywheel too. I also added a truck brake adjuster, which is a worm drive, to give rotational control. 8 inch hand wheel from old steam valve and a brodie knob make it a cinch to turn her over.
 
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