best way to get heads off

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Hi all,


What is the best way/tool to get a set of heads off? The bolts all came out nice and easily, most were all coated with oil but two center bolts came out with what appears to be water droplets on them. I looked in the manual and I don't have the special tool that they show. Do I need a special head puller?


Thanks,


Mike
 
IMG_1955.jpg
 
The heads have never been off the engine, so they are just plain hard to remove I think. Dominic, thanks for the pic I will give that spot a try tomorrow.

Mike
 
ford used thin steel head gaskets with no gasket material i used a bar in the intake port and pressure the dowel pins are holding them good luck
 
If you're talking about a Y-block, notice that there is a little portion at the bottom of the head that protrudes from the engine block at the front.
I have always taken a large, regular screwdriver and stuck it under that little lip there, then tapped the bottom of the screwdriver with a hammer. That will cause it to pop up a little bit.
Another way to do it is to have two 1/2" diameter steel rods, each about a foot long. One end of each rod should be beveled round at one end. Stick the beveled end of one rod in the second or third exhaust port and stick the beveled end of the other rod at the opposite end intake port. (Back that one out as needed to keep away from valve stem).
Grab the two rods and pull up and the head should break free (after all the bolts are out, of course).
I've done it both ways. Always worked for me.
 
Well they are off! Used a block of wood and some tire irons and they popped right off easily, after a few good whacks. And this is what I found.

GOOD-Some carbon ridge-albeit not all of the way around and just a very slight wear ridge. No major scoring, although there is one spot that can be seen and just barely felt. Standard bore, clean piston tops-more or less and Ford valves in the heads. Not bad for a sub 50K engine.

BAD-some sludge, not much and it will get cleaned out when on the stand. some scale and goop in the antifreeze in the water jackets. Rust on some valve heads but I think that is from sitting in the yard.


Overall, she is in pretty good shape. Next up is to see what the bearing look like. What do you all think? Passenger head/block and then driver side head/block and finally #6 before scraping and after.



Mike
 

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Those appear to be 471 heads, which were used on '59 292's. They have the big valves like the '57 ECZ-G heads but larger combustion chamber, so about one number lower on the compression ratio.
I think you said the engine came out of a '57, so at least the heads aren't original. All passenger car Y-Blocks in '57 had ECZ-G heads.

Sal
 
Yep, I just found them on the Y block guy site. So now I don't know what to make of the motor. I will check the bearings this weekend. I may just use these heads as is for now and look for the correct heads later.

Mike
 
The extra steam holes drilled in the block between the center cylinders could have been added later, but my bet would be the block is the same vintage as the heads.
 
what are the casting letters on the block.59 blocks are b9ae.they didnt have the steam holes until the the last 2 years 63 and 4.unless you have one of these its a rebuilt.
 
1930artdeco said:
Yep, I just found them on the Y block guy site. So now I don't know what to make of the motor. I will check the bearings this weekend. I may just use these heads as is for now and look for the correct heads later.

Mike
Click to expand...

The 471 heads will work OK. The only difference is the 292 will have an 8:1 comp ratio instead of about 9:1 with flat top stock pistons. Slight difference in HP number at high RPM.

Sal
 
Merc Cruzer said:
I will introduce you to my wife...she tears my head off all the time, and never leaves a mark!

As KULTULZ would say: And Then The Fight Started ...
Click to expand...

Oh, she's very careful not to leave any marks. She can take a cast iron frying pan and bounce it off the side of my head (sounding similar to church bells) with no resultant lacerations or swelling.
 
So, since this engine has been opened-at least on the top end so far-it has become a Frankenstein motor. Not that that is bad, but just not what I was hoping for. I checked the numbers on the block, heads, exh and intake manifolds and I get different years. This is what I got:

Block= ECZ 6015C=292/312
Exhaust manifolds R=B9AE, L=EDB (58-59 292 manifolds)
Water outlet=ECE-8/3
Intake=ECZ-9425-B

So my guess is this, the engine is a genuine low mileage 312 (well at least at this point in time) that went to the fairlane I got it out of. But at some point the heads and manifolds got replaced along with the valley pan. The only reason I say this about the pan is that it was designed with a PCV valve in it from the factory. It has a stamped indentation where the valve sits so I don't think it is a later mod.

Mike


K, the 4100 on this car came with an electric choke? Why? I thought they all were mechanical pulling heat from the manifold. That is preferable as there are fewer possible problems.
 
It's a Ford/Autolite 4100. They came out in 1957. To my knowledge they were all electric choke. These are great carbs, prolly about as close to set it and forget it as it gets. The venturis are annular discharge, good for gas mileage and performance. If you don't want it I would be happy to get it out of your way...:D
 
1930artdeco said:
K, the 4100 on this car came with an electric choke? Why? I thought they all were mechanical pulling heat from the manifold. That is preferable as there are fewer possible problems.
Click to expand...

You can purchase ELECTRIC CHOKE KITS.

In all actuality, an electric choke is a better performer. Much less maintenance and mechanical problems.

Dobie Gillis said:
It's a Ford/Autolite 4100. They came out in 1957. To my knowledge they were all electric choke.
Click to expand...

It is a FORD carb (designed by HOLLEY for FORD -1958 Model Run).

AUTOLITE and MOTORCRAFT were marketing terms.

All had hot air chokes
 
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