best way to adjust valves

We've found the best way here for us is to just following the firing order, turning the unit every 90*, we mark the pulley in 4 quadrants AFTER locating the #1 firing position!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I can give you a "tip" also when working with a fresh build. We adjust all 16 valves (one at a time) during the "mock-up" period (using some "checking" springs) where we can turn the cam by hand (no crank/pistons installed yet). You can get all the valves close enough to the actual setting needed with very little effort. This does NOT help on any already built/running units.
 
tubman said:
After receiving it and looking at it, I'll probably never use it, but I like to support the hobby.
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You could REALLY support the "hobby" hugely by sending funds for me to purchase this little '40 coupe. A PM will get ya my mailing address for your check right pronto. DD


72915207-770-0@2X.png
 
If anyone wants to see that it looks like.
 

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whizzernick said:
How do you find TDC ? How do you turn motor 90 degrees ?
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Believe I covered the "finding TDC" in detail in post #8.

And for how do you turn the motor 90 degrees, the same way you would turn the motor for any other method of setting the valves.

Install a pointer near the crank pulley. Make a permanent mark on the pulley. Use chalk (or anything handy) to mark the pulley every 90 degrees (that is in quarters). Start with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Then work your way through the firing order every 90 degrees.

I agree with GoFast, the best way is one valve at a time with the lifter on the heel of the cam. But you can take some shortcuts if you are not working with a high performance cam and/or using a stock cam. To me it is just easier and quicker in the long run to do it in a know accurate method. Doing it once is quicker and easier to me than taking a chance on doing it again.
 
glennpm said:
Hi,


Here's the link to the tool. If you have a crab type distributor, it doesn't work well. The set screw hole was not drilled properly on the one I bought. I fixed it but it's not worth the bother IMHO.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FLATH...695210?hash=item420fd89aea:g:yykAAOSwnh5b8tx5
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Thank you, Glenn but, that is not anywhere close to the one my dad had.

His was most likely, die cast aluminum (all smooth contours) (metal was white so, it could have been zink, also), the degree wheel (only marked for cylinder locations and valves) was machined and about 1/2" wide, with markings, so that you read it from above, the index line area, was also machined to match the wheel. The wheel was about the same diameter as a crab dist cap.

There was no set up time, it bolted in place of the dist and it had a off set key, just like the dist and was no harder to use, than it would be to set the points on a crab dist.
 
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V8COOPMAN said:
You could REALLY support the "hobby" hugely by sending funds for me to purchase this little '40 coupe. A PM will get ya my mailing address for your check right pronto. DD


72915207-770-0@2X.png
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Send a check to a guy who lives on the "East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON" and has an aeroplane for an avatar? Yeah, like that will happen.:D I will admit that you have developed your taste in automobiles to the point that you would seem to prefer a '40 Standard over a DeLuxe.;)
 
Hi,

I do it like Gary, start at TDC of #1 adjust, then rotate by hand wrench on crank nut (spark plugs out!) Attached are my pointer and markings on the main pulley. The long mark at each degree position is the one to stop at. The other hash marks tell me whether its 90, 180 or 270°.

Still wondering if someone has some magic when using the adjustable lifters with "tool", I use that loosely ;-) I'll post the thread where I modified the "tools".


Here it is:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1823716&postcount=40

Glenn
 

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glennpm said:
Hi,

I do it like Gary, start at TDC of #1 adjust, then rotate by hand wrench on crank nut (spark plugs out!) Attached are my pointer and markings on the main pulley. The long mark at each degree position is the one to stop at. The other hash marks tell me whether its 90, 180 or 270°.

Still wondering if someone has some magic when using the adjustable lifters with "tool", I use that loosely ;-) I'll post the thread where I modified the "tools".


Here it is:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1823716&postcount=40Glenn
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Hi Glenn, it's really the easiest way for us here, but one important item must be noted, it has to be #1 in the firing position, not at the end of the exhaust stroke?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. The "TDC" mark on the damper shows the #1 piston to be up all the time but it doesn't necessarily mean it's on the firing stroke. Working on an assembled unit makes it bit more difficult to know!
 
Hi Gary,


Yes understood on having two TDC positions, one for #1 and the next rotation of 360° on the crank pulley, for #6. My fifth picture "Rotor Position for #1 at TDC.jpg (5 of 6), shows that the rotor is in position to fire the #1 spark plug wire.


Best regards,
Glenn
 
I do mine by turning engine until the valve is fully open, then turn one complete revolution adjust that valve, do the others ,sure it takes a while longer but it means every valve is on the heal of the cam.
Lawrie
 
Lawrie said:
I do mine by turning engine until the valve is fully open, then turn one complete revolution adjust that valve, do the others ,sure it takes a while longer but it means every valve is on the heal of the cam.
Lawrie
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But that is way too simple. No chance of screwing up. Takes the fun out of doing them over again.
 
WhizzerNick asked for the best way. There are many ways and the best way is the one you are happy to use.
Everyone has their own personal "best" way.
Mart.
 
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