Best Tip?

I second Marco's timing procedure. I've shared that with countless new Model A'ers.


The NEATEST tip I received was when I was showing the car at a senior center and this old timer came up to me while I was sitting in the car. His eyes lit up and he said he had a coupe like mine and remembered taking his best girl out for long drives in it. Then he pointed to the gear shift and said, "You know if you lift straight up on that shift lever you can swing it out of the way to make more room for you and your girl."
He said that with a tell tale smile and a wink. I didn't know that at the time and sure enough it did swing out of the way. It seemed like this guy was quite the ladies man back in the day and probably used that trick quite a few times! haha.
 
Many years ago when I was a teenager and had just got my first model A, an older guy showed me a handy fix. If you have condenser failure you can mount a modern condenser to the coil bracket and hook the pig tail end to the switch side of the coil , red wire if you are using original type wiring harness. This works good and moves the condenser to a cooler spot. It is also easier to remove and replace when on the road.
 
Hey, 29 wagon - You must be right because my wife was just telling me the other day that for buying my '31 roadster and pouring all this time and money into it, I should be committed. I was pleased to see that she cared!

Great minds think alike!
 
1. Replace the original cut-out or diode cut-out with a voltage regulator in a cut-out housing.

2. Replace regular points with electronic ignition.

3. Don't, under any circumstances, trust an original, metal, two-bladed fan.

4. Install a new, best-quality, leakless water pump.

5. Get crank counter-balanced.

6. Install insert lower rod bearings.

7. Don't take any wooden nickels. (My grandmother's advice when I was a boy)
 
If your starter hangs up on the flywheel ring gear and jams, put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear, let the clutch out, and rock the car back and forth. This will turn the engine backwards and free up the starter. Have had to do this about 6 times; always, of course, when a crowd is gathered around to watch you start her up and drive off.

I might add that once I replaced the old bendix with one of the new starter drives and got it correctly positioned on the starter motor shaft, this hasn't happened again.
 
Michael in Sedona said:
...This will turn the engine backwards and free up the starter...
Click to expand...

Good tip, but note that turning the engine FORWARD is more effective at freeing the starter drive.

The starter drive is "coming from behind" to engage the ring gear. If it gets stuck, it's on the back side, so to speak, of engagement. Reversing the starter would free the drive, but we can't do that. Next best thing is to move the engine forward.

Joe
 
HoarseWhisperer said:
Perhaps not the best, but the latest tip from "The Restorer", July/August, 2010.

I did have one of these incorrect springs in my parts inventory.

picture.php
Click to expand...
It makes no difference which side of the car the starter is mounted on..think about it.. the "other handed" spring is used when the starter is mounted BEHIND the flywheel.

Rainmaker Ron
 
vinepro said:
A good friend told me to loosen the lug nuts on the back wheel and drive around the block to get the rear brake drums to break loose if you do not have a puller and it does work.
Click to expand...

Surely you must mean loosen the AXLE nuts and not the lug nuts. Running even a short distance with loose lug nuts will make the holes in the rim the size of a peacoat sleeve!
Rainmaker Ron
 
Ray in La Mesa said:
Don't throw away the Bendix spring on the right in the photo above, give it to one of your Model T friends, he'll appreciate it.
Click to expand...

Why would a T guy want a reverse drive spring? The T starter is mounted the same as an A. Also, even though the T spring is the same "hand" as the A it is a smaller profile.
Rainmaker Ron
 
I also have to vote for the plastic bag trick for mounting tires as the best tip.

The other one which was helpful was to hang the keys on the gas shutoff valve. This way you know where the keys are and you make sure you leave your car with the gas valve turned off.

Also use a bungee cord to strap a small drip pan (cake pan) underneath the flywheel housing to catch those occasional persistent oil leaks.
 
-Dont ever leave home without the spare parts
-If your cars broke, leave it at home, dont make it other people problem on tours. (most annoying thing ever!!!)
-on the interstate drive the car, dont let the car drive you. In other words, try the best you can to keep up with traffic. DONT get on the highway if you only drive 35-45, you will get your @ss run over. Ive seen it happen twice.
 
Always take the gas cap off before you blow into the gas line to clear a blockage.---I learned this on the side of the road in my first year of driving.
 
vinepro said:
A good friend told me to loosen the lug nuts on the back wheel and drive around the block to get the rear brake drums to break loose if you do not have a puller and it does work.
Click to expand...

I hope you meant to say "AXLE NUTS" rather then "LUG NUTS".

If you drive on loose lug nuts, you'll quickly ruin the wheels and the brake drum studs.

I just saw that Rainmaker Ron already caught this one. Ron's pretty quick on the draw!:)
 
Last edited:
I acquired a 28 "barn find" Roadster in 1960 and pretty much put it into storage mode until I retired in 2004. I then joined the local Model A Club and figured to start the rebuilding work and was TOLD "whoa!" (rolling museum). One man, the one that sits high on the hill, suggested I coat her once every 3-4 months with diesel to prevent the mild surface rust from getting worse. Just have to wait a few days before using so the dust and dirt don't stick.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top