best oil filter

glenn in camino

glenn in camino

Well-known member
I have a couple of touring class Model As that I show at regional and national meets. I'd like to put oil filters on them. What's the best oil filter for an otherwise stock Model A. What will it do to my engine compartment score?
 
The best filter type for removing the smallest particles is a bypass type filter--
Most engine wear is caused by particles in the 2-25 micron range (stuff that fits in the oil clearance--.001 or less)

most bypass filter elements are 98% efficient at 2 microns

most full flow filters are only 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns ----and that is when the bypass valve is closed, when thick cold oil is forced through a full flow filter the bypass valve will open letting unfiltered oil through.

The "million mile Mercedes" in the ads only has a screen for full flow, and a bypass type for a filter.

Most wear particles are very small ---if they were big the engine would wear out very quick, the big stuff is what didn't get cleaned out during manufacturing or rebuilding ---this causes more damage than wear, I have had to go into many recent rebuilds to correct problems after failure, had to replace many new bearings ruined due to machining debris the rebuilder left behind

The A engine even though it doesn't have a filter the design allows for it, the oil pickup is up off the bottom of the pan, the oil feeds for the mains are raised in the valve chamber to allow settling of large pieces, the thick babbitt (compared to inserts) allows more debris to embed and be surrounded causing less crankshaft wear compared to an insert type engine with the same "dirt" load

As for "period correct" some engines in the era had a metal can bypass type filter
http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/news/pages/purolatorhistory.aspx
 
That's very interesting, Kurt. How comes the full-flow filters have been so universally adopted if the part-flow are so much better?

Steve
 
We reviewed the various oil filters available. Getting the flow is important and the only place to get full pressure or flow is to take it from in the valve chamber to the filter and back. The A Ford Able unit from Bratton's does this, is all new parts. We added the Ford Racing 90@ adapter to turn the filter to a more managable position. I have this on the sedan and roadster pick up.
 

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I have the same set-up as John LaVoy on my '31 PU (including the Weber Carb)

I use a WIX 51515 filter, It's black and looks like it belongs. Fram (bright orange) or NAPA (blue) or Motorcraft (white) just draw too much attention to themselves.
 
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Help me understand how this setup works. If the filter is bolted to the valve cover, how is the oil pressurized to go thru the filter? Seems to me the oil has to have pressure pushing it thru or it will just bypass and not go thru the filter?
 
The oil is pumped from the oil pump through a pipe (included) to the filter then dumped into the valve chamber. It is just detoured to the filter first.
 

Several filters other than the big, FL-1A that holds .88 quarts of oil will fit the same mount:
The shorter one in the pix below is a Fram PH7328, 3 5/8D x 3 1/4 H .6quart
If you want more knuckle room, Fram PH3614, 3"D x 3 3/8 H .4quart
Also, Fram PH3600, 3"D x 5"H .6quart

All spin-on oil filters have a "backflow preventer" rubber flap valve of sorts that keeps the oil from draining in horizontal apps. A 90 degree adapter is NOT needed to keep the filter full, but they prevent a big mess on removal, and allow 100% pre-fill when changing filters on the side cover mounts.

Shown here are two 90 degree adapters, both Ford parts. In the small inset is the currently available adapter from Ford Motorsports, about $80. It is offset to the left and has an annoying tab (red circle) that can easily be trimmed off. The larger pix is one of two styles of out-of-production Ford adapters from V8 truck apps. I got this one at a bone-yard for $12, and it has a nice offset to the right, needed if you are running dual updrafts. There are three others from Ford, but I have no part #'s or pix, sorry!

90degreefilteradapters.jpg
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The best oil filter for ANY engine is a Frantz Oil Cleaner. They are a by-pass filter that is remotely mounted. I have an idea for a new mounting place on my A engine but haven't done it yet.
Back in the '60's I had just got a nasty old 1952 Ford F1. When I pulled the dipstick it looked like I had tar on it. As I was preparing to change the oil a friend happened by. When he saw my oil he said "Don't touch it. I'll be right back". A bit later he came by with a Frantz unit. In less than 45 minutes it was installed. He had a piece of paper with squares marked on it. He pulled the dipstick and put a drop of oil in the first square. As the oil soaked into the paper you could see the grime in it. Every two hundred miles I would pull the dipstick and put a drop in the next square. By the time I had traveled a thousand miles the oil was clear. That sold me on the Frantz and I have been using them ever since. If ya keep your eyes open at swap meets you can sometimes find a used one for 10-20 bucks.
Here is the link to their web site. http://www.wefilterit.com/
 
John, the timing cover filter filters less then 40% of the oil pumped by the oil pump. The filter attached to the valve cover filters over 95% of the oil pumped to the engine.
 
I would like you all to think differently.

Let us assume that the contaminents that cause engine trouble are made continuously and at a slow rate.

Let us assume that the timing cover style filters 50 percent of the oil and 50 percent of the oil does not get filtered on each pass of the oil.

Let us assume that all of the oil that returns to the oil pump is perfectly mixed with the oil in the oil pan.

The oil pump puts out approximately the volume of oil per minute as the amount in the pan.

The next pass will filter 50 percent of the oil that is already 50 percent filtered, and so on.

After 30 minutes of driving 99+ percent of the oil in the system will have passed through the filter at least once and probably 15 times.

I submit that the side cover filter is more effective than the timing cover filter, but not by much. Everyone would be better served by using a really good filter in either application. I remember a few years ago Fram filters were the worst rated (for particulate removal) of the brands available. At the time I worked for a company that was part of the empire that controlled Fram. I do not use Fram filters.

Vic
 
Vic in E-TN said:
I would like you all to think differently.

Let us assume that the contaminents that cause engine trouble are made continuously and at a slow rate.

Let us assume that the timing cover style filters 50 percent of the oil and 50 percent of the oil does not get filtered on each pass of the oil.

Let us assume that all of the oil that returns to the oil pump is perfectly mixed with the oil in the oil pan.

The oil pump puts out approximately the volume of oil per minute as the amount in the pan.

The next pass will filter 50 percent of the oil that is already 50 percent filtered, and so on.

After 30 minutes of driving 99+ percent of the oil in the system will have passed through the filter at least once and probably 15 times.

I submit that the side cover filter is more effective than the timing cover filter, but not by much. Everyone would be better served by using a really good filter in either application. I remember a few years ago Fram filters were the worst rated (for particulate removal) of the brands available. At the time I worked for a company that was part of the empire that controlled Fram. I do not use Fram filters.

Vic
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Vic, I couldn't agree more. My guess is that with the rate of flow even with a stock A oil pump the rate at which it gets to 99%+ wouldn't even take half that time or even less. To speed that up a little, i installed a larger feedline on my Taylor timing cover filter unit. The most important thing is that the oil IS getting filtered.
 
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