best head puller

1930artdeco

1930artdeco

Well-known member
Hi All,

I blew a head gasket, water in oil etc. so I am doing a couple of things all at once to her. Now I am down to gasket replacement. I am looking at two different head pullers which one is best for a REALLY REALLY stuck head:

1) Eye bolt that goes in the plug hole
2) The long multi position head/engine puller that also goes into the plug holes (don't know how else to describe it)

Thanks,

Mike
 
These items ok for lifting head,but not as a puller! I carefully use copper putty knives or steel, to pry loose along with wood or plastic shims available at lumber yards.
 
Gary, normally I would do that. But I have the silicone one on and it is glued down hard. So I need something to pop it off so I can get wedges in there. I am going with the copper so I can do that in the future.


Mike
 
I have no patience, i weld the nut to the stud, add penetrate or wax then back em out with an impact gun. Yah it ruins the studs but it doesnt take a week. Break a stud off, whatever just more welding and wax.
 
Loosen the nuts till there about1/8” above the head then crank the engine.
Should break loose.

I use 2 of the eyelets in the plug holes with an engine hoist to pull the head.
Wood shims and a rubber mallet for good measure
 
The multi-position head/engine puller works best. It is not just for lifting the engine. It is a head puller that works by pulling against the studs. I'm not a good mechanic, but I can pull a stuck head using this device.

W. Michael
 
I tried the rope method (didn't do it right-got frustrated) and then crank the engine by hand/starter. Nothing. Will get a head puller-Stipes.


Mike
 

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I ran mine the last time I did it with all the head bolts backed off and it broke it loose,
Then I worked it the rest of the way off.
 
I too concur that the head puller that MagicBox shows works very well. I have one and it has worked well for me.
 
walls said:
Loosen the nuts till there about1/8” above the head then crank the engine.
Should break loose.

I use 2 of the eyelets in the plug holes with an engine hoist to pull the head.
Wood shims and a rubber mallet for good measure
Click to expand...

This has always worked for us. Easy!
 
You will find that the one you ordered should do the job just fine. Sometimes when using them on a really stuck head you will have the head move up unevenly. Don't be afraid to take the puller off, put a few of the nuts back on and pull the head back down into place. This will get it back level again but also will work loose some of the rusty crud that has built up between the studs and the head. Doing this a few times can make it go faster in the long run.
Sometimes a head will come all the way up to the top of the studs to the point that the puller can no longer push against the head studs. In this case I have 1/4" nuts that I have ground the outer points of the nuts off making them round. They will then sit on top of the four studs that the puller pushes against. Grinding the tips off making them round makes room for them to fit down into the head allowing more travel from the puller. I have had to stack them four deep to get the really stubborn heads all the way off.

You can also hook your engine lift or chain lift to the puller and put upwards pressure on the head. If you are lifting in this manner with a lift realize that you are actually lifting the body and frame of the car upwards too. If / when the head pops loose the car will settle and the head will go up. You can destroy the junction box on the firewall in an instant when this happens.
Don't ask me how I figured this one out....
 
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