Best fuel sealant

This will be an opinion answer like what oil to use.
Take a look at what's available and get the one you like. Don't forget the formulas on these has changed in the past few years to work with fuel containing alcohol so something that worked for someone 5 years ago may not work today.
I bought this due to good reviews and it being a complete system so all materials were compatible with each other. I was for our daughters little Mini Cooper. Before I did her's they made another run of repro gas tanks so I bought a new one. So I can't tell you how it worked.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-ta...p3amn-JhbHpmFpcNhEJ1dZ3jlE7D8EwQezRwXnssvbURA
 
I use a product called Gasoila. It is used in the petroleum industry and so it is handled at our local NAPA because of the oil production in Western North Dakota.
 
If you are considering sealing the inside of your gas tank, don't do it. There is no sealant that is totally gasoline resistant. Eventually, the sealer will separate and give you a nightmare of trouble. If your gas tank leaks, get it fixed by an expert like Brent Terry.
 
What exactly are you wanting this product for?

That's a really good question.

I was assuming for threads, like on the fuel shut-off valve, where it screws into the bottom of the gas tank.

But I should not assume anything...

So, yea old31, where do you plan to use it?
 
For quite some time I had been fighting a Model B carb leak from beneath the main jet, leaking past the drain plug on the bottom of the carb. I switched between a new brass plug and a new steel one with the same result: fuel collected on the bottom of the plug, stinking up the garage after a day or so. I lowered the float level and checked whether fuel was actually leaking out of the carb's air intake throat. It wasn't. The fuel was definitely getting past the drain plug. I think the problem centers around the threads in the carb itself. After years of use and hundreds of drain plug removals, followed by variations of tightenings, the threads are probably worn a little oversized so that fuel oozes past them. The plug can be tightened without any slop, but the fuel still is able to get past the gasket and plug threads. Using plumber's tape (the white plastic stuff) wrapped around the plug's threads will only work until the fuel breaks the material down and bits get caught in the main jet or further down the line. So, a tape was not the answer. No other commonly reached-for sealants stopped the dripping, either.
Finally, I went to a local NAPA store and asked about a fuel resistant sealer and was told Permatex Permashield sealant would work. It wasn't out on the floor with the other sealants. It was kept in the back for some reason. I bought a tube and took it home to test it. Before I applied it to the threads, I also replaced the drain plug's gasket that came with the carb rebuild kit. It seemed too hard to seal properly. I bought a softer material fiber gasket at local hardware store and slid that over the plug's threads. Once the threads were coated with this sticky non-hardening blue sealant, the drain plug was tightened and allowed to cure overnight. For the next few days I would start the engine, turn off the fuel and allow the engine to die. I checked the bottom of the drain plug each morning thereafter. No gas! I did this every day for a week and am glad to report that this sealant did the trick. Before, each morning there would be a little gas collected on the bottom of the plug. Not anymore!
If this experience helps the OP and others with a dripping carb, it was worth the $15.00 this stuff cost. But to have a garage without a gas smell is worth more than a measly 15 bucks to me!
Marshall
 

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As far as the best, there may be newer products I don't know about. When I started in the aircraft maintenance field many years ago, a product named Tite Seal was available. It has since turned into Niel Seal. It is available in several viscosity levels. There are others but they vary in how hard they get over time. The Niel Seal stays pliable.
 
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