Best continuous-use electric fuel pump??

36tbird said:
Those Holley regulators are not "set and forget". Numerous times I have had to readjust mine. Also, be sure to check that your tank vent is clear. A problem there can make it seem that your pump has gone out. Voice of experience.
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Thanks for the heads-up. I went to my shop today and turned the ignition switch on and the fuel pump. I have a pressure gauge at the pressure regulator. After a few seconds the gauge was registering about 2.5#. So I started the truck and let it run for about fifteen minutes. By then the pressure was down to about a half a pound. Not too promising.

I checked the vent on the tank and it is clear. I have adjusted the regulator a few times in the past. I think I am to the point of trying a different pump.
 
Im not being filled with confidence here..
I have ordered an Airtex one which I am going to use as a priming pump for the time being, then I was going to swap it over to my Fairlane when and IF I put the Carter one on full time and by-pass the manual pump.. I have my fingers crossed the Carter has "made in the USA" stamped on it!
 
I think the key to success is picking a pump with ratings close to what you need, mounting it down low near the tank, and giving it a secure power supply. The only troubles I've had over 20 years of using electric pumps has been with a Facet pump that just wasn't rated high enough flow for the application. Even then it was fine unless I ran it more than 3 hours straight.

Which Airtex did you buy?
 
sidevalve8ba said:
I am having electric fuel pump problems. I have been using a Carter P74017 low pressure pump with a pressure regulator. I am using twin 94's and have set the pressure at the regulator at 2.5#. I am not using a mechanical pump at all. The Carter pump is mounted at the tank and I have a fuel filter between the pump and the tank.

In the past year or so I have had two of these fail. They still make noise like they are pumping but it shows 0 pressure a the regulator. What am I doing wrong? Am I using the wrong style of pump or brand?

I just barely made it home today and I would like to remedy this problem. I searched the other posts but most if not all of what I found had to do with using the electric pump to prime the mechanical pump or in addition to the mechanical pump.
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As with anything, you get what you pay for.
If you want a continuous duty pump that is rated for alcohol use, you are looking at around $175 for just the pump. They are a bit noisy also.
The commonly used "dead head" regulators will seldom hold constant pressure under varying conditions. A bypass type is the cure for this but here again you are looking at another $125 and running another line back to the tank for the return.
Both Aeromotive and Holley make first class pumps and regulators.

ANY ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP INSTALLATION SHOULD HAVE AN INERTIAL CUTOFF SWITCH!!!!! It's a good idea to hook the ignition on the same circuit so it gets killed also.
 
Not making a long walk and paying for a tow job one time. will make up for the extra you pay for the pump and regulator.LOL
 
Vergil whats your inertia switch? Anyone have the best way to do a cut off for "our type of cars?"

I think you are right about doing a return line, its right way to do it with an electric pump , moreso for higher rated ones. I am convinced that is why people have so many problems with the "Holley blue - red" style pumps.
 
I get my inertia switches at a wrecking yard. Most new cars have them. You can test them by whacking them on the counter before you leave.
 
So, I'm running a Holley elec pump(cause I got it in trade) and I'm buying a Holley fuel press regulator, but the regulator only goes down to 4-1/2 psi, is that low enough for 94's?
I'm going to run one carb to start, but am going to three as soon as motor is broken in.
 
Holley offers two regulators. Their low pressure regulator has a range of 1 to 4 psi. It comes set from the factory at 2.7 psi. Use it with your 94 and you should have good results.
 
You can buy the rebuild kit for the regulator, it comes with a new diaphragm and both the low-pressure and high-pressure springs. Assuming you have the 12-804 regulator, the part # for the kit is 12-807, about $12 at the usual places (I got mine at O'Reillys).
 
Not sure of the Holley part #, the Napa/ Balkamp # for it is 3353417,
Of course I had to order it, and it won't be here till tomorrow.
Thanks for the info.
 
If you have a Ford tank and you have a pipe that you push into tank make sure its all the way in. Could be like running out of gas.
 
Talkwrench said:
Vergil whats your inertia switch? Anyone have the best way to do a cut off for "our type of cars?"

I think you are right about doing a return line, its right way to do it with an electric pump , moreso for higher rated ones. I am convinced that is why people have so many problems with the "Holley blue - red" style pumps.
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I forget what Ford van I got mine out of, but a picture of mine and the relay's


full
 
"The Carter pump is mounted at the tank and I have a fuel filter between the pump and the tank."
If it is a paper element filter that could be your problem too, I am told they break down and you should use a "stone" or screen before the pump and an element after the pump.

This is all good info I am doing the same upgrade to my '40 and have the NAPA 6v fuel pump. I will post the # when I get home.
 
Latest update. I have ordered the gear-driven 12 volt fuel pump from 5th Avenue. It comes with the recommended 30 micron filter. I will install that and give another update.

Sad part is I have another one of the low-pressure Carter pumps brand-new in the box behind the seat of the truck but I'm a bit leery(okay, a lot leery) of trying another. I'll save it for an emergency.

If I were running a high-pressure pump I would say that a return line would be necessary but not so much on low pressure. I guess I'm a good one to talk though, I'm the one having the problems with a low-pressure deal. :rolleyes:
 
I want to point out something with the Holley 12-804 (and other similar) regulators. I started smelling gas one day, just after a start. I checked under the hood and to my horror there was a stream of gas spraying right down near the DS header. (My regulator is mounted on the DS inner fender).

The regulators have a little "notch" (see arrow below) that acts as a tattle-tale when the diaphragm ruptures. I rotated the diaphragm cover 180 so now if it leaks, it sprays on the inner fender.
 

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Holy crap Ross ! is that a good idea Holley?? I don't remember seeing anything like that on the fitting instructions?

Thanks Vergil.. I will look into the inertia switch , Ive not ever really heard about it before, only the usual oil pressure switch setups?

My Airtex pump turned up yesterday [thanks Rockauto] so I will see how that goes as a priming pump. I take it that little canister that's attached to it is a fuel filter not a valve?
 
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