Best 1956 Fairlane radiator?

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Ford Freak

Well-known member
Greetings! My '56 has a 351 Cleaveland that runs great. However, I need a new radiator. I have read where the 3 row aluminum unit is less restrictive than a 4 row unit. I have also read where the original copper radiator is the best way to go. What are you all using in your V8 cars? (I hope this does not turn into one of those "best motor oil" threads! lol) Thanks in advance guys! F F
 
You still using the stock radiator with the stock hose locations? Was it cooling ok before you decided to replace it?

Almost impossible around here to find some who will rebuild an original.

If so, there’s been some pretty positive reviews among the bird guys with Champion aluminum ones. Priced right, work good. Give it a coat of black paint and it kind of goes away.

If cooling has been a problem, I’ve had really good luck with BeCool units. Mechanical and electric fans with good shrouds. But sit down and have a drink first, they are really proud of them.
 
I built a '40 ford with a 302 engine back in the '90s. I put a Griffin 2 row radiator with 1 1/4 inch tubes. I had a thermostat controlled Spal electric fan on it. The fan rarely came on, even in city traffic. At about 10 years it began to seep at the bottom tank. Griffin had gotten very expensive by then, so I replaced it with a BeCool. It did the job, but not a well as the Griffin did. If i remember correctly, the BeCool had 1" tubes.
 
The car came w/a 4 row Champion unit in it. I have a new 180 thermostat, new 16 lb. cap, steel 6 blade fan, and have thoroughly flushed the system 2 times. I have read that the 4 row radiators are too restrictive in some cars, limiting air flow, and that 3 row is better. The car is fine in temps below 85 degrees, starts getting hot after that.
 
Stolen off the internet

“ A mix of 50/50 coolant and water boils at around 220 degrees. That same mix at 16 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure boils at approximately 250 degrees. And the boiling point increases 2-3 degrees for each additional psi of pressure in the system.”

As temperatures rise, you can expect to see 1 degree of increase in the cooling system for each degree in ambient. So if you’re ok at 80 degrees (running 180 on your stat) you’ll be around 200 on a 100 degree day. But still well below the boiling point. Modern engines run well over 200 all the time.

Have you checked the thermostat housing and upper and lower radiator hoses with an infrared thermometer? Are you actually boiling and loosing coolant?

None of us like to see the temp gauge go up, but it isn’t necessarily a problem.
 
Agree with Mike above. Think a check at the top and bottom with an Infared thermometer could give you a better sense of what's going on vs. the dash gauge. Would be a nice result to find that your current radiator etc. is doing just fine!!!:)
 
Ford Freak said:
The car came w/a 4 row Champion unit in it. I have a new 180 thermostat, new 16 lb. cap, steel 6 blade fan, and have thoroughly flushed the system 2 times. I have read that the 4 row radiators are too restrictive in some cars, limiting air flow, and that 3 row is better. The car is fine in temps below 85 degrees, starts getting hot after that.
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Yes, don't buy a 4-row. I have a fortune in a 4-row copper tube (expensive brand) in my streetrod, and I dislike it.

My 57 still has the y-block, and it has a US Radiator copper tube that I got from Concourse. It is nice, but just a bit pricey.
 
RKS.PA said:
Agree with Mike above. Think a check at the top and bottom with an Infared thermometer could give you a better sense of what's going on vs. the dash gauge. Would be a nice result to find that your current radiator etc. is doing just fine!!!:)
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Yes, I did check it w/an infared thermometer last summer. It was a bit cooler at the bottom, but I don't recall just how much. It would get up to 230-235 ideling in traffic. BTW- Temp gauge is a brand new AutoMeter, and I do have a shroud.
 
Ok, so not boiling over. That’s good. I’m going to assume you checked the gauge sender temp with the infrared, and know it accurate.

It took me years to adjust to the damn gauge going up but the engine being ok, not boiling. I guess that’s why modern cars don’t show the temp, we don’t really want to know.
 
I think That I will just look into a aluminum 3 rower. There is a vendor on Ebay that has them for 115.00 & free shipping. I have to try something different here, and for that kind of money I will gamble & see what happens. Thanks to all whom responded! F F
 
I have for years run with the thought that if it don't puke it ain't hot! The 351C temp gauge is located at the T-stat housing, probably one of the hottest points in the system, so when the thermometer said the outlet temp to the radiator was 195 the gauge read 220. Has a 180 T-stat/12 lb. cap, copper three row with puller fan in a 36 Chevy.
 
Ford blue blood said:
I have for years run with the thought that if it don't puke it ain't hot! The 351C temp gauge is located at the T-stat housing, probably one of the hottest points in the system, so when the thermometer said the outlet temp to the radiator was 195 the gauge read 220. Has a 180 T-stat/12 lb. cap, copper three row with puller fan in a 36 Chevy.
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Whatever the outlet to radiator temp on the infared is on my car, it always matches close to the AutoMeter temp gauge inside.

A 351C in a 36 Chevy? Love it! I'll bet that Pi$$es some Chevy lovers off!!
 
5851a said:
Do you have the thermostat with the hat and the brass bypass pressed into the block?
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Yes, put that in last summer. I never knew about that before then. I have had around 6-7 Cleveland's since 1973, never had one run hot until this one. I think my 4 row radiator is just too restrictive. Thanks for the reply! F F
 
Yup, the "other" guys just LOVE it!
 

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