Bendix Spring

T

tootsie

Junior Member
I have a 28 AR with an engine number that dates to June 1928. I bouth the vehicle in 1969 and have never had a problem with the starter until recently. After a rebuild of the brushes, bushings, etc. I am having problems replacing the bendix spring; it has a 5/8" shaft with 5/16" USS bolts but when I have tried the 'modern style' replacement and the replacement 'old style' from suppliers the engine won't turn once back together. I believe the outer portion where the spring is located (the part furthest back) is contacting the flywheel behind the gear. I have just received a Model T spring from Snyder's and if it is smaller in diameter it must be in microns. Any experience with this?
 
Often, in an early clutch housing, the drive will hit the inside of the clutch housing. Look inside and see if you can see where it has been hitting. A smaller OD spring MAY fix the problem. Grinding off some of the inside of the clutch housing will fix it for sure.
 
Are you using the multiplate flywheel? The later multiplate flywheel had some of the OD turned down for added clearance for the new drive to replace the Abell drive. Do you know which flywheel you have?
 
This episode has included a lost bolt and washer from the bendix; thanks to all who directed my efforts in retrieval! In this exploration I did pull the inspection plate for the bell housing and it appeared as though the clutch might be the old style multi-plate that based on my research took up a lot more space that the more contemporary versions of single plate. This is an early 28, engine code says June 1928. I bought the car with my Dad in 1969 and we simply have never had any problems out of the starter, clutch or transmission. While I can rebuild a carburetor in under 30 minutes, this is all new ground for me. I am ignorant of what the OD is you are referring to so if possible please enlighten me. By the way, it was during the search for how to retrieve a lost bendix bolt that I discovered the forum and I am amazed at the knowledge you have, I am honor:)ed that you have responded to my question... no disrespect to others but I have found Tom's responses to be dead-on. Thanks, I will look forward to hearing back.
 
Snyder's sells a modern starter drive for about $25 that eliminates the exposed spring and bolts. It's only for a starter with 5/8" shaft diameter, though. Don't know how that works with the old style clutch.

Just reread your post, so in the words of Roseanne Roseannadanna, "never mind".
 
I do have 5/8's drive but am leary of buying anymore drives unless I can confirm a diameter. I am going to see if there is sign of contact with the inside of the flywheel housing as was suggested, also going to try the T type spring, when all else fails I still have my trusty crank which REALLY gets attention from passers by!
 
My good friend (whose '30 coupe I now have) also had an early '28 roadster pickup. He always said that half the parts were surplus model T stock. Dunno how true that is, tho. (I would have liked to have the pickup, but that goes to his son, and besides, I really can't fit behind the wheel!)
 
Mr. W.,

It appears I have the one shown in the upper frame of the photo. I am not able to see where the bendix is contacting either the clutch housing or the flywheel, I only know that in past replacements of the starter the engine can not be turned with the crank. Assuming that it won't turn there would be no sign of rubbing on the flywheel hence I am perplexed. Suggestions are appreciated.

Tootsie and her friend
 
Had just found that described when I read all of Tom's post on the flywheel; it struck me that I might try that. Have you had a similar situation?
 
I thought the special drive that Tom memtioned would only work on a starter with a 1/2 inch starter shaft. That is the diameter used with the multi disk clutch unless the flywheel was modified to accomodate the use of the 5/8 inch starter shaft. Parts for the special drive are hard to come by. Good luck
Supergnat
 
I agree but since I have a couple extra 5/16" USS bolts I am in the process of giving it a try. The T spring I bought from Snyder's is 1 15/16" OD and what concerns me is that its ID is so large, 1 5/16", that the spring rides 'crooked' along the shaft. Unfortunately I, who never throws anything away, apparently threw out the original spring that got broken so I have no benchmark to judge this by. I am going to complete the task of creating a headless bolt to see if that will allow the engine to turn once reassembled.
 
Check with Bert's or Little Dearborn for the correct spring. Last I knew Little Dearborn had at least one left. 612-331-2066
 
You also might want to try McDonald Obsolete Parts Co, 812-359-4865. When my special drive went south he had a new old stock one which I purchased. You might ask if he has any parts or another complete drive. Mine works perfectly.
Supergnat
 
I'll throw my 2ct in here. When I bought my 28AR pickup with multi-disc clutch it had the early style flywheel with a later 5/8 shaft starter. The former owner who inherited it must not have driven it since that starter would not disengage from the flywheel. I was able to buy the correct starter from a forum member for not much money as I recall.

I later changes out to a 39 transmission but saved the multi-disc parts. I am putting in a single disc clutch to sell the truck but will give the AR parts to the new owner in case he is interested.
 
" in past replacements of the starter the engine can not be turned with the crank. Assuming that it won't turn there would be no sign of rubbing on the flywheel hence I am perplexed"
I too am perplexed. What do you mean ? Can you turn the engine with the crank when the starter is NOT bolted on the bellhousing?
 
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