Bendix Spring bolts
- Thread starter abachman3
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
If they are tight, and fit the threads tight rarely will they come loose or break--- when they are run loose the threads wear and there's more bending motions to fatigue the bolts----
I don't run starter on 12 volts, but I have used the starter to drive the car out of the garage to work on the not running car to get in better light, and when the clutch was stuck I would start the car in first, drive shifting without the clutch, stopping the engine at light and stop signs---- the car has been putting up with my uses of it with few complaints, 35 years ago I took a bendix I got in the trash and used new bolts and locks--- I would guess that starting in gear is harder on it than 12 volts
I don't run starter on 12 volts, but I have used the starter to drive the car out of the garage to work on the not running car to get in better light, and when the clutch was stuck I would start the car in first, drive shifting without the clutch, stopping the engine at light and stop signs---- the car has been putting up with my uses of it with few complaints, 35 years ago I took a bendix I got in the trash and used new bolts and locks--- I would guess that starting in gear is harder on it than 12 volts
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
The Bendix starter drives were troublesome throughout the Model "A" years judging by the quantity of service bulletins issued about them. My comments regard the A-11350-C Drive.
Refer to the Ford Service Bulletin for June 1931, Pages 570, 571 & 572. Starter Spring Clips A-11383 were installed on the drive to provide a bearing surface for the first 1/4 coil on each end of the spring. So these clips put sheet metal between the spring eyes and the drive body. On Page 572 at the bottom of the spring clip text, there is a paragraph warning not to tighten the spring screws to the point where the spring eye cuts into the clips.
The spring is going to elongate and put a twisting torque on the spring screws regardless of how tight the screws are. If the screws are tight, they will cause acceleration of wear on the spring clips, the spring eyes and the spring screw heads.
Because of the twisting torque of the spring eyes, Ford put special anti-rotation lock washers on the drive to engage the screw heads and drive body. Besides the special lock washers, I suggest you use a thread locking compound.
The diameter of the Bendix bolts changed from 5/16" to 3/8" when the V8 went into production. The V8 Starter Drives are interchangeable with the Model "A" drives.
The ultimate solution for Bendix drive problems, the most notorious of which is broken screws in the flywheel housing, is to use a quality-made modern starter drive.
Refer to the Ford Service Bulletin for June 1931, Pages 570, 571 & 572. Starter Spring Clips A-11383 were installed on the drive to provide a bearing surface for the first 1/4 coil on each end of the spring. So these clips put sheet metal between the spring eyes and the drive body. On Page 572 at the bottom of the spring clip text, there is a paragraph warning not to tighten the spring screws to the point where the spring eye cuts into the clips.
The spring is going to elongate and put a twisting torque on the spring screws regardless of how tight the screws are. If the screws are tight, they will cause acceleration of wear on the spring clips, the spring eyes and the spring screw heads.
Because of the twisting torque of the spring eyes, Ford put special anti-rotation lock washers on the drive to engage the screw heads and drive body. Besides the special lock washers, I suggest you use a thread locking compound.
The diameter of the Bendix bolts changed from 5/16" to 3/8" when the V8 went into production. The V8 Starter Drives are interchangeable with the Model "A" drives.
The ultimate solution for Bendix drive problems, the most notorious of which is broken screws in the flywheel housing, is to use a quality-made modern starter drive.
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GPierce
Well-known member
Recently I have run into two starter dives that had a 5/16” bolt in the spring on the starter end and a 3/8” bolt in the hole in the A-13357 sleeve end of the shaft.
Was this done at the factory or done to attach the new A-11357 starter drive sleeve which only comes with the 3/8” threaded hole?
Snyder sells a package of 2-3/8” bolts or a package of 2-5/16” bolts.
The sleeves did not have the slots milled on each side as called out in Snyder’s catalog.
Was this done at the factory or done to attach the new A-11357 starter drive sleeve which only comes with the 3/8” threaded hole?
Snyder sells a package of 2-3/8” bolts or a package of 2-5/16” bolts.
The sleeves did not have the slots milled on each side as called out in Snyder’s catalog.
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Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
GPierce
Well-known member
I am 85, can still do most everything I want do but hand cranking a Model A with a high compression head is one I can’t do.
I still hand prop my Cub but the lever arm is much longer on that.
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Randall
Senior Member
This is probably the bendix Bob is talking about.https://youtu.be/0Iwdq5Uml00?si=IIld0kQcgkjmbPHR
Sunny the Model A
Senior Member
I found that by turning the starter just right, one can remove the starter without removing the inlet by snaking it around the inlet and steering column. I know this because I had to pull the starter out of the car because the Bendix jammed up. I pulled the starter, attached the starter cable and the wire connecting the rest of the wiring together with a bolt and wrapped it all up with tape so it wouldn't short on anything. I crank started my truck and drove all over town with no starter on the engine. Whole operation took about 20 minutes to pull. and I did that twice. I finally got a repo Bendix and my problems are all over.
Bob Bidonde
Well-known member
I can get the starter motor that is equipped with a modern starter drive in out without disturbing the coolant lines in both of my 1931 Model A's.
