Bendix conversion F1 vs F100?

RalphM

RalphM

Well-known member
Which one is the better choice? Converting my 35, with 39 front end.
I’m asking because I have a set of 1952 F1 hubs/ backing plates, but was just offered a set of 1955 hubs/backing plates. Is there a noticeable difference?
 
The backing plates and all the internal parts are the same, the difference is the hub and drums. I would go with the setup you can find the drums for. Both are available and there are some options, so it about boils down to cost and ease of access.
 
Just the hubs and drums are different and you have to match the hubs to the drums. 48 to 52 is the F1 style . 53 to 56 is the F100
 

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Are you running wire 35 wheels ? If you are they wont play happy with the flat style F1 /F100 drums.
 
The 35 rim wont fit the shape of the f1 or f100 drum.

A easier way is use lincoln brakes and 40 drums then your 35 wires can work with the support rings

On f1 or f100 you need a spacer about 2" thick
 
Arghhhh! It’s always something! So here’s an idea, what about original, or repop F1 drums. Won’t they fit those? They are recessed on the outside like early drums.
 
RalphM said:
Arghhhh! It’s always something! So here’s an idea, what about original, or repop F1 drums. Won’t they fit those? They are recessed on the outside like early drums.
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Nope, I had a set of F1 or F100 that supposedly came off of a 40. Wouldn't fit the wires.
 
Why won’t they fit what can be done to make them fit?
I’m not beyond making a one off set of adapter plates!
 
We cant do it down under as the spacers required are too thick to pass inspection , If you lay an early flat head drum and an f1 drum down side by side and drop a wheel on each one you will see the issue. The 35 centre is somewhat smaller than a steel disc wheel that is essentially flat. You may be able to fit the require (at a guess ) 1” 1/2 or more spacers in the Alaska.
We fitted 41 front drums on the rear and used the stepped Boling brothers bendix set up on the front to make the 35 wires work. Our rear also needed 1” spacers.

This is essentially what the spacer would look like . In my opinion on the front especially it is not desirable as it throws the scrub line off and puts undue stress on the bearings.
 

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Now that’s what I’m talking about, some New Zealand ingenuity!
So would the Boling Bros drums need less of a spacer?
I’m going to lay them all out as you said and ponder my options, I’ve got plenty of steelie rims and wide fives, but I really want to go with the 35 wires. I guess worse case scenario I bite the $bullet and buy the aftermarket Lincoln’s. But being part Hot Rodder tells me there’s some other way!
 
You can still find original lincoln brakes

Boiling brother drums wont work with F1 or f100. They are 12"

Last one I did was lincoln rear backing plates, 40 drums and hubs, 37 spindles.

F1 or f100 work better on 42 to 48 spindles
 
Speedway makes an adapter that also includes the support for the wire wheel center.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-1928-35-Ford-Wire-Wheel-Adapters-5-x-5-1-2-Inch,94212.html

Which is best (or worst), an adapter like above or spacer & long studs is probably a matter for a different discussion.

An actual F-1 drum would probably require less of a spacer than a flat drum; but real F-1 drums that are still usable are hard to come by and the repops are nothing to write home about.
 
How about F250 12 inch backing plates outfitted with 1.75 inch shoes and 40 Ford hubs & drums with MT support rings for the 35 wires? Uses stock studs with no wide spacers. Keeps the front geometry closer to stock and keeps the wheels inside the fenders.
 
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